L’Albatros Scotch & Cigar Tasting

L’Albatros Scotch & Cigar Tasting

Join us on a late summer’s eve Tuesday, September 14 at L’Albatros
Brasserie as guests bask in the warmth of scotch and cigars.

Relax while the white ash lengthens and Sommelier Brandon Chrostowski and
cigar aficionado Craig Anthony guide guests through the marriage of scotch
and cigars. The evening will also include appetizers, music and desserts.


6:15 pm
Tuesday September 14, 2010 *
$60 guest (excluding tax and gratuity)

L’Albatros Brasserie
11401 Bellflower
Cleveland, Ohio 44106
216.791.7880

Reservations required

*In the event of rain the tasting will be rescheduled Monday September 20.

Tex-Mex, Kaplan Style

Long before Eric Williams retooled Happy Dog into an uproarious tubesteak bierstube, savvy operators we're plotting to do the same with tacos. More than one local chef had been tracking available properties in the Detroit-Shoreway neighborhood, eager to stake his or her claim on "the next big thing." The unbridled success of Happy Dog only served to shift those pursuits into overdrive.

Credit Marlin Kaplan for winning the race. By partnering up with Rosita Kutkut, owner of the good-but-failing Latin eatery, La Boca, Kaplan managed to jump to the head of the line. A few tweaks to the turnkey property at W. 58th and Detroit were all it would take to get Roseangel up and running as Cleveland's first "modern taqueria."

Kaplan may have won this leg of the race, but he is far from winning the marathon. Since opening in early July, the restaurant has been pestered by issues relating to food, service and operations – all likely the result of haste. While improvements are happening on a daily basis, many of those embarrassing first impressions continue to linger in diners' minds. When all is said and done, the final judgment likely will be reserved for the food, which at present is still a bit of a mixed bag.

However short, the ramp-up time clearly was long enough for Kaplan to imprint his trademark flair. Always an attractive space, the restaurant was made infinitely more chic by the introduction of vividly hued crocodile-print wallpaper and striking black-and-white polka dot tables. A corner entrance places arriving guests squarely in the lounge, a lively sunroom dominated on one side by the bar. An adjoining room offers a more peaceful setting away from the boisterous chatter and whirring blenders. Out back, a pleasant enough patio is on hand for alfresco dining.

In these times of ultra-streamlined restaurant concepts – think hotdogs, grilled cheese, or burgers – it was only a matter of time until some shrewd local operator landed on tacos. In addition to being a universal comfort food, they also happen to be super trendy. Taco trucks, if you haven't heard, are hitting the streets in record numbers all across the nation. Roseangel's menu is streamlined alright, offering nothing but tacos save for the starters and sides. But while constrained, the menu also is unnecessarily broad, with nearly 20 varieties of tacos from which to choose. There are multiple versions of pork, chicken, beef, seafood and vegetarian fillings, complicating the decision-making process and almost guaranteeing duds.

Complicating matters worse was the fact that our server neglected to explain how it all works. Tacos can be ordered on soft or hard shells (a salient detail omitted from the menu). The housemade corn tortillas are amazing: slightly thick, corny and charred from the griddle. In contrast, the hard shells are dull and, on one visit, cool and stiff. At $4.25 a pop, the tacos are more than reasonably priced, especially considering the portion sizes. A three-taco platter ($11.75) sounded like a keen idea until we learned they all had to be the same. "Who wants three of anything?" my wife asked rhetorically, echoing my thoughts as usual.

Tacos range from delicious to disappointing. In the former category are the hangar steak with crispy onions; battered perch with avocado cream sauce; and grilled shrimp with roasted garlic. In the latter is gloppy braised pork with onions and pineapple. Landing somewhere in the middle are the braised beef tongue, the duck confit, and one containing avocado and soy sauce. Most are so overstuffed with slaw and fillings that they are impossible to eat as intended. On two occasions we ordered a side of rice and beans ($3.50). On one occasion it arrived at the table hot.

Salsas, sold separately for $2.50, could all use refinement. Most are too sweet, containing more fruit than flavor. Few boast any real spice. Others are too chunky, too tart, or too odd. The guacamole ($7), served with house chips, is a winning starter, but the duck nachos ($12.50) left us scratching our heads. A cold stack of chips, shredded duck, tomatoes, sour cream and un-melted cheese, the appetizer gives nachos a bad name. A zesty chorizo corndog ($9) arrived hot and crisp on one visit, cool and spongy the next.

On a more positive note: cocktails at Roseangel are lovely, particularly the sparkling white sangria ($6.50) and the margaritas ($7.50). The wine list is far too good for a taqueria, but the beer list makes perfect sense.

It's true that operating a restaurant is more marathon than sprint. But both races require a solid start for any hopes of success.


Roseangel
5800 Detroit Ave., Cleveland
216.961.5800

Ohio Applejack, Baby!

It's Saturday afternoon and Tom Herbruck is tinkering in his Bainbridge Township garage. Outside, chickens roam about the leafy estate in a loose pack, scratching at bugs, worms and wild clover. Every few minutes, another of Herbruck's children pops into the shed to say "hi," but the man will not be diverted from his tasks. Crouching in front of an ornate copper pot still, he collects the first few dribbles of a clear liquid. A modern-day alchemist, Herbruck has transformed apples into brandy.

We've all heard of farm-to-table dining. Now, thanks to the pioneering efforts of people like Tom Herbruck, we might soon be talking about orchard-to-snifter sipping. Part of a new breed of craft micro-distillers, Herbruck and his wife Lianne are producing a high-end spirit born entirely of local ingredients. Made from Ohio-grown fruit, their apple brandy – or applejack – is an elixir two years in the making, with the first precious bottles expected to hit liquor stores this fall.

Like the microbrewers before him, Herbruck strives for quality and authenticity over quantity and mass appeal. Branded Tom's Foolery, the distillery joins just two other small-scale operations in Ohio, Cincinnati's Woodstone Creek and Columbus' Middle West Spirits. Additional micro-distilleries are right around the bend, including Sam McNulty's Market Garden Brewery, slated to open in Ohio City later this year.

"If not technically illegal," Herbruck explains, "it was entirely impractical to start a micro-distillery here until the state relaxed some regulations." Now, like numerous states across the nation, Ohio is laying out the welcome mat for spirit-based start-ups and the tax dollars they bring with them.

A truly American spirit, applejack has been produced in this country for over 300 years. Before Prohibition, there were scores of distilleries making the stuff. These days, there is a mere handful. Herbruck is the first to revive the tradition in the Buckeye state. To be called apple brandy, the spirit must be distilled entirely from the fermented juice of ripe fruit, a process with considerably higher costs and lower yields than those using inexpensive grain.

To distill applejack you first have to make hard cider. Herbruck fills his stainless steel fermentation tanks with sweet cider, pressed from two dozen varieties of Ohio apples. In a little over a week's time, the cider becomes about as alcoholic as a craft beer. In the old days, applejack was made by freezing – or jacking – the hard cider to separate the frozen water from the liquid booze. Modern makers prefer distillation, a far more elegant process that results in a smoother product.

Herbruck transfers the hard cider into his ornate Portuguese pot still, which uses steam to boil the brew, causing the alcohol to evaporate in the form of vapor. As that vapor worms its way through the coils, it cools, condenses back into liquid form, and drips into a waiting vessel. Herbruck uses a hydrometer to measure the ever-shifting alcohol level of the flowing liquid. The goal is to separate undesirable compounds like methanol and acetone from the prized and potable "heart." Following a second distillation process, the clear spirit is deposited in charred oak barrels, where it will age for up to two years. Straw-colored and apple-cheeked, the finished product is a brandy with a uniquely American – even Midwestern – essence.

"Terroir is a real thing," says Herbruck. "The apples that grow in the Western Reserve area taste different from the ones that grow in Northern France." Everything affects the final product, he adds, from the varieties of apples used to the kind of soil in the orchard. "It all matters."

In addition to their cherished applejack, the Herbrucks currently are developing an artisinal gin. Typically, gin is made by infusing a neutral grain-derived spirit such as vodka with botanicals like juniper and orange peel. The Herbruck's gin will be made from apples, giving it a wholly unique story and flavor profile.

"Most gins are made by first stripping out all the flavor in the sprit," explains Herbruck. "Ours will be a New American-style gin where the flavor profile of the original distilled spirit comes through in the final product." So, in addition to time-honored aromatics like juniper, coriander and angelica, the liquor will offer pleasing autumnal notes of crab apple and cinnamon.

Though Tom's Foolery applejack is expected to be on liquor store shelves this fall, don't expect to stumble upon a bottle at your local Giant Eagle. Herbruck, a financial planner by day, can only craft around 200 cases per year, promising that a bottle of the stuff will be the hottest gift come holiday season.

Chagrin Falls Icon Goes From Chag-Town to Burntwood

If we've learned anything about the Chagrin Falls dining scene, it's that fire-themed restaurant names are bad luck. Blazin' Bills, Timberfire, Firefly – all consumed by flames. So, somebody knock on wood that Bret Adams' soon-to-open Burntwood Tavern (504 E. Washington St., Chagrin Falls) is free of fiery misfortune. Truth is, it's a tinderbox. After gutting the former Chag-Town down to the studs and rafters, Adams is rebuilding it with the timbers of a 125-year-old barn. The look is decidedly rustic-chic, with rough-hewn wood floors, post-and-beam cathedral ceilings, barn siding-clad bar with copper top, wrought iron fixtures. French doors, framed by sizeable wooded shutters, connect to a pair of small front patios. The tacky vinyl siding has been stripped and a restored cupola crowns the building. After more than 20 years in the business, much of it as a hard-traveling regional manager for the Bravo/Brio group, Adams decided to plant roots in Northeast Ohio. "I had every intention of taking the summer off," he says. "But then I happened to drive by this building." Burntwood, a town in England, he explains, is home to some of the oldest pubs on the planet. Like those old taverns, Burntwood is all about rustic simplicity – think wood-grilled chops, smoked meats, housemade pickles, duck-fat fries. The house specialty will be smoked bone-in prime rib, a dish that has all but vanished. Like his former boss, Cameron Mitchell, Adams hopes to duplicate the concept if it proves successful. Look for a mid-September opening.

APOTHECARY

"Lakewood has plenty of sports bars," explains Joe DeLuca, "but it has very few places for professional men and women." In an attempt to remedy that inequity, DeLuca opened Apothecary (15625 Detroit Ave., theapothecarylounge.com), a "modern cocktail parlor." Located adjacent to Niko's on Detroit, the sharp little lounge has a wine-bar feel. "My intent is to make handcrafted cocktails as approachable as possible," explains DeLuca. "The cocktail renaissance is important, but does it require a curly mustache and arm garter to do it right?" As owner of what he calls a "teaching bar," he hopes to inspire imbibers to venture beyond the tried-and-true. His main spirits rotate monthly, so that Moscow Mule may come with Tito's vodka one visit, Boru the next. Signature concoctions include a fragrant Bouquet & Tonic, made with orange blossom water. There is also a small, well-chosen selection of beer and wine. For those still stuck in a rut, Apothecary sells Budweiser. Open Thurs. – Sat. 6 p.m. to 12 a.m.

Metro Puts 'Bar' Before 'Kitchen'

Look at the movies coming out of Hollywood lately and you'll detect a common thread. Rather than embrace originality, the big studios are electing to wager their money on the safe bet. A quick glance at the marquee reveals a menu of bland sequels, remakes and adaptations. Moviegoers hungry for arty creations with fresh appeal must instead stomach a diet of dependable, derivative fare.

The same approach appears to be at work in the Warehouse District, where the once-original Metropolitan Café has been rebranded as Metro Bar + Kitchen. Operated by Hyde Park Restaurants, the Metropolitan had always been the odd man out of the group, which duplicated its steakhouses in numerous cities and states. Operating largely independent from the troop, Metropolitan featured a chef-driven menu free from corporate constraints.

When Metro debuted this spring following a four-month renovation, it was immediately clear that more than the drapes had changed. In an attempt to attract the broadest possible audience, the restaurant ditched originality in favor of trendy predictability. Items like wings, pizza, ribs, burgers, chicken and steak reflect a menu drafted not by a chef but a suggestion box. What's more, Metro isn't just emulating the dishes served at countless other popular establishments, it's aping itself. Though they sport different monikers, Metro and the recently unveiled Jekyll's in Chagrin Falls feature nearly identical menus.

Hollywood blockbusters can still be entertaining – and so too can Metro. The splashy redesign has worked wonders on the 10-year-old restaurant, which was so dated it made Miami Vice seem currant. The bulk of the efforts went into the bar and lounge area, a sweeping multi-level affair that encompasses soft, traditional and communal seating options. Some of the most comfortable squats in the house are found on the backside of the bar, where low-slung armchairs abut a reduced-height bartop. Ornate paintings, suspended horizontally from the ceiling, proffer a whole new way of looking at art. Outsized pendant lights introduce drama to the wide-open room, while a warmer color palette adds class.

And people appear to be taking notice. In a town not known for its markedly handsome populace, Metro manages to attract the cream of the crop. Those in the market for a new model could do much worse than a night here, where A-listers brighten up the joint with their gleaming-white smiles. Not long after the clock strikes five, the sleek new outdoor bar begins filling up with martini-toting movers, shakers and local celebs.

Those that do get to Metro's bar before 6:30 enjoy half-priced appetizers and pizzas, as well as discounted beer, wine and cocktails. We all know that restaurants are in the business of making money, but it shouldn't feel obvious. Even at the happy-hour price of $4, our ginger cocktail tasted like lemonade, containing little more than a thimble of the promised Skyy Ginger. Much better bargains are those half-priced apps, like a pile of freshly fried potato chips (reg. $6.90) topped with buttermilk blue, candied pecans and a drizzle of sweet balsamic glaze.

As far as bar munchies go, little pairs better with a cold beer than the warm Jersey Shore pretzels ($7.20). The trio of salty, puffy bread sticks is served in a wax-lined basket along with honey-mustard and sweet caramel dipping sauces. Also on the sweet side is the Thai chile sauce that glazes the tiny fried calamari ringlets ($10.90) and, for that matter, the faintly spicy Asian chicken wings ($5).

Small groups can gather 'round a crock of warm and gooey cheese fondue ($10.90), fortified with Buffalo-style chicken and served with tortilla chips. Also prime for sharing are the consistently tasty thick-crust pizzas, bedazzled with everything from pepperoni ($9.90) to shrimp in lobster sauce ($11.50).

Burgers are neither new nor trendy, but sourcing beef from New York's famed butcher Pat La Frieda is all the rage (see B Spot). Despite the cow's pedigree, however, our cheeseburger ($7.90) arrived grey and juiceless throughout, appearing more steamed than seared. Diners can pair their burgers not just with great hand-cut fries ($1.90), but also thick milkshakes – with or without a shot of booze.

We'd rush back to Metro tomorrow for another order of the blue-cheese topped boneless short ribs ($16.90), which have all the flavor and tenderness of a killer pot roast. An equally lush roasted half-chicken ($14.90) arrives firmly perched on a bed of herb mashed potatoes. A rich, buttery citrus sauce gilds the yard bird.

We never did get around to ordering any of the numerous steaks and chops. We figured, why bother? You can get those anywhere.


Metro Bar + Kitchen
1352 W. Sixth St., Cleveland
216.241.1300

The Fried Chicken Capital of the World!

In their book entitled 500 Things to Eat Before It's Too Late, award-winning food journalists Jane and Michael Stern set out to catalogue this nation's finest regional cuisine. The fruits of nearly 35 years on the road, the book guides diners to local specialties that are so good, they warrant an out-of-the-way trip. Commanding almost a full page are the fried chicken restaurants of Barberton, Ohio, with special attention paid to Belgrade Gardens, the progenitor of them all.

Barberton-style chicken, as it has come to be known, is more than a dish – it is a ritual, complete with trappings prescribed by generations of tradition. Regardless which of the numerous chicken houses one chooses, a diner can expect almost identical experiences. Rather than set out to distinguish themselves from one another, competing restaurants like Belgrade Gardens, White House Chicken, Hopocan Gardens and Milich's Village Inn do things pretty much exactly the same way. That's not to say there aren't subtle differences in taste – and strong personal allegiances to a particular spot.

Barberton-style chicken might just as accurately be called Serbian-style chicken. Young immigrants Mike and Smilka Topalsky opened Belgrade Gardens on their father's dairy farm 77 years ago, using recipes and techniques their families imported from the Old Country. Three generations later, little has changed.

"The recipes we use today are the recipes that my grandmother learned as a little girl back in Serbia," explains Milos Papich, proprietor of Belgrade. "Our goal is to do right by the people before us. You don't mess with quality."

When former Belgrade staffers left long ago to start their own chicken houses, those recipes spread across the Barberton community like fat in a hot skillet. Rival restaurants came and went, but along the way the city built a reputation as the "fried chicken capital of the world." Today, four main operations still exist, some with multiple locations.

So what is Barberton-style chicken? It starts with fresh, never frozen, Amish-raised, Ohio-reared chicken. The bird is cut into numerous pieces, including wee drumettes, wings and backs, which are euphemistically billed as "chicken ribs." The practice is said to be a holdover from the Depression days, when maximizing servings meant stretching a dollar. The meat is lightly salted, dusted with flour, tossed in an egg wash and rolled in bread crumbs. It is fried – always and forever – in lard, also known as pork fat, which bestows upon the crust a copper-colored glow that rivals the prettiest Hawaiian sunset. That crust – a shell, really – seals in every last drop of chickeny goodness.

The success of Barberton chicken lies in its simplicity. The meat is not subjected to a buttermilk bath. There are no "11 secret herbs and spices." Finished pieces aren't drizzled with honey and truffle oil. When you fry each batch to order in pork fat, there is little need for paprika and Old Bay. Instead, what shines through is the taste of chicken – hot, juicy and delicious chicken. White meat or dark, each piece is always perfectly cooked. And those backs? While there isn't a whole lot of meat on them, they are fully encased in that dreamy crust. And isn't that the best part of fried chicken?

Dining at any of Barberton's chicken houses is eerily identical, like poultry déjà vu. First, you'll be asked, "white or brown," a reference to the free sandwich bread that is served, along with butter tubs, at the start of the meal. Fried chicken dinners come in a variety of sizes and configurations, from small all-white to large all-dark. Two different restaurants offer something called "The Rooster," a 12-piece platter that evokes thoughts of David Sedaris. Some folks, believe it or not, order nothing but the backs. Meals include a choice of sides from a list that is the same from joint to joint, right down to the green beans and cottage cheese. Pretty much everybody, though, orders the coleslaw, fries and hot sauce, which, strangely enough, is neither hot nor sauce. A stewed tomato and rice dish with Serbian origins, hot sauce can be used as a dip for the chicken or fries, or eaten as a vegetable side dish.

Apart from subtle differences in crust color and seasoning, the chicken from shop to shop is remarkably consistent, as are the sides. Though some of the coleslaws are shredded while others are finely chopped, they all sport a sweet-tart dressing made with vinegar and sugar. The hot sauce, a love-it-or-leave-it thing if ever there was one, ranges from sweet and mild to tangy and faintly spicy. Fries are of the fresh-cut, skin-on variety.

One look at the massive parking lot of Belgrade Gardens and it's clear that the place can handle a crowd. The largest of the bunch, the restaurant is able to seat about 300 at a go. But the sad truth is, rare are the days when the parking lot is full. As local industry dried up over the years, so too did the daily crowds at Barberton's famed chicken houses. With many of the restaurants pushing 50, 60 and even 80 years old – and boasting the interior design to prove it – continued survival is anything but a given.

So, the question becomes: How long will diners be able to enjoy real Barberton-style chicken before it's too late?


Belgrade Gardens
401 E. State St., Barberton
330.745.0113

White House Chicken
180 Wooster Rd. N., Barberton
330.745.0449

Devore's Hopocan Gardens
4396 Hopocan Ave., Barberton
330.825.9923

Milich's Village Inn
4444 Cleveland Massillon Rd., Norton
330.825.4553

Tidbites

Jason Noyes has a long history in fine dining, cooking at such notables as Fahrenheit, Blue Pointe and Salmon Dave's. Recently, the chef opened a little place of his own – but fine dining it is not. Big Daddy's Cheesesteaks (16804 Lorain Ave., 216.251.1000, bigdaddyscheesesteaks.com), located in the Kamm's Corners neighborhood, specializes in big, messy and delicious sandwiches. The Cleveland ($6.50) features hot shaved sirloin, American cheese sauce, and sautéed onions, mushrooms and peppers. It is served with a tub of homemade "Cuyahoga Brown" gravy for dipping. For an extra $3, Noyes will super-size the cheesesteak and toss in a fried egg, but why mess with perfection? If you're thinking this sounds like great drunk food, well, duh. "I live in the neighborhood," says Noyes, "and I was thinking what can I do to get people here after the bars. There was plenty of pizza but no place to get a really good cheesesteak." The small diner-style eatery serves until 3 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.

Indian restaurants rarely make a splash upon opening, and the new-found Indian Delight (5507 Detroit Ave., 216.651.4007, classicindianfood.com) is no different. Even in buzz-worthy Detroit Shoreway, this newcomer hardly made a sound when it first parted its doors two months back. But fans are starting to take notice, attracted by reliably consistent Indian fare. During the week, diners queue up at the lunch buffet, a standard offering of all-you-can-eat meat, vegetable and bread dishes. Priced at $7.95 ($9.95 weekends), a recent lineup included veggie pakora, three chicken and four vegetarian dishes, plus fragrant basmati and buttery naan. None of the meals possessed much heat, but the chutneys helped. In addition to ubiquitous Indian-restaurant staples like chicken vindaloo and rogan josh, the menu boasts less common South Indian dishes like idli (steamed lentil patties), dosa (rice crepes) and uttapam (rice pancakes). Diners also can order a tall glass of sweet mango lassi. Don't expect much in the way of ambiance at Delight, a spare, square restaurant that utilizes plastic tablecloths.

Fat Head’s Brewery (24581 Lorain Rd., 440.801.1001, fatheadscleveland.com) continues to rack up beer awards, adding Grand Champion of the Global Warming Open to its recent win at the National IPA Championship. Until now, those brews, Bumbleberry Blueberry Ale and Headhunter IPA, have only been available at the N. Olmsted restaurant. A pending partnership with a distribution company, though, means that bottles might soon begin appearing at area bars and restaurants, says brewer Matt Cole.

Melt Conquers East Side

It's been a good four years since Matt Fish opened Melt in Lakewood – and I do mean good. In that relatively brief period of time, his modest grilled cheese bar has become nothing short of a national phenomenon, appearing in big-city newspapers, glossy magazines, and on top-rated cable programs. With customers oozing out of his joint like so much melted cheddar, Fish was practically compelled to open a second location just to alleviate some pressure. Unveiled in late May of this year, the Cleveland Heights outpost is experiencing the same level of exuberance as the original.

Skeptics will tell you that the exuberance is irrational, triggered by folks like Guy Fieri of Diners, Drive-ins and Dives and Adam Richman of Man v. Food. As somebody who struggled for a seat at the original eatery long before any far-flung TV producers had heard of the joint, I challenge that assertion wholeheartedly. Rarely have I seen diners as giddy during a meal as I do while dining at Melt.

Granted, shows like the recently aired Man v. Food, where host Richman attempts to devour his considerable heft in cheese, continue to fan the flames of popularity. Despite two locations boasting a grand total of some 300 seats, the places still suffer lengthy waits and ticket times, though rarely as long as some would have you believe. East Siders, however, benefit from a floor plan that (in theory) should reduce both. A massive three-sided bar and adjacent counter accommodate approximately 60 guests, making waits for parties of one or two surprisingly brief. A vastly expanded kitchen featuring a griddle twice the size of that in Lakewood is designed to halve the time it takes to serve the room.

Music fans will remember the Cleveland Heights locale as the old Peabody's Café, where budding hippies enjoyed sets from Oroboros, Ekoostik Hookah and the Janglers. Fortunately, a top-to-bottom renovation has stripped away the years of funk while simultaneously cheering up the entire block. Windows, long boarded up, have been exposed to welcome rather than snub the sun. Gone is the gaping hole in the middle of the room, replaced by a smooth expanse of hardwood flooring. Annexation of properties on either side has given Melt a wide and prominent berth.

Despite the change in address, not to mention the celebrity buzz, little about Melt has changed since Fish gave birth to the concept four years ago. In designing the second (and dare I say, third, fourth and fifth) outpost, Fish endeavored to fashion a "carbon copy" of the original. Diners will find the same tin ceilings, starburst pendant lights, and exposed brick walls blanketed with rock and sports memorabilia. Kitsch is in large supply, from old video game signs to hopelessly out-of-season Santa lawn ornaments. Menus, naturally, still arrive on the backs of album covers.
There is, however, one major improvement east of the Cuyahoga: the beer list. While Lakewood diners must make do with a meager 20 draft brews, Heights hoisters have a listing of three dozen from which to choose. Prices are more than fair, too, with pints of Dogfish 60 Minute going for just $3.50.

I'm not sure why Fish needed to invent the "Melt Challenge," a five-pound, 13-cheese beast that only a handful have conquered, including Travel Channel's Adam Richman. Seriously, have you seen the regular sandwiches?! The Big Popper ($9), for one, stands a menacing half-foot tall. Like a deconstructed jalapeno popper, the sandwich is stuffed with cream cheese, cheddar and a bushel of sliced hot peppers. Oh yeah, and the entire sandwich – bread and all – is battered and fried. Too much? Consider the Parmageddon ($10), which is a grilled cheese sandwich and appetizer of pierogies combined. Even the relatively tame Wake & Bacon ($7.50), filled as it is with bacon, egg and cheese, is a challenge to conquer. All sandwiches come with a mound of cabbage slaw and a pile of superb hand-cut fries. Rare is the customer who doesn't leave with a doggie bag.

Appetizers include a wholly delightful crock of spinach, artichoke and cheese dip ($8), decent-enough fried tofu triangles ($5), and downright depressing crab cakes ($8), which have no business being on the menu. Salads offer a fresh alternative to the gut-busting sandwiches. The "bread, bacon and blue" ($7) tosses together bright greens, blue cheese, house-made croutons and warm bacon dressing. But who comes to Melt for salad, right?

Confession: I've never even considered ordering dessert at Melt. Really, who could possibly think it's a good idea to follow a toaster-sized sandwich with an order of cheesecake, bread pudding, or fried Twinkies? Me, I'll stick to the sammies.


Melt Bar and Grilled
13463 Cedar Rd., Cleveland Heights
216.965.0988.

Live, Learn, Cook

A celebration of 9 survivors from Cleveland's ever-crowded restaurant scene:

Zack Bruell

Current Restaurants: Chinato, L'Albatros, Table 45, Parallax
Previous Restaurants: Z Contemporary Cuisine (1985)
First job in the biz: Dishwasher at University of Colorado cafeteria (20 years old)
Shifting trends: The labor market in Cleveland has improved drastically. When I opened Z we had to hire people with zero fine-dining experience and train them to do what we wanted. It was naïve of me to think that they'd stay with me. I ended being the training ground for the rest of the city. It's much easier to find talent now.
Tech: Technology has made running the business easier. But we don't embrace technology in the kitchen; cooking is still cooking. My kitchen looks essentially the same as it did when I started cooking. I don't go for that high-tech stuff. Food should be pleasurable; it shouldn't challenge people.
Bloggers!: Everybody has a right to their opinion, but people who pass themselves off as professional reviewers and don't have the balls to sign their name, that's wrong. Look, we don't have the luxury of a soft opening anymore. From Day One you have to deliver or you'll have problems. That's why you won't see me away from my restaurants.
WTF?!: After a wine tasting years ago, some diners were having sex in a private dining room. My favorite 18-year-old busboy saw them, freaked out, and asked me what he should do. I told him to "shut up, watch and enjoy."
Nugget of wisdom: You're only as good as your last meal.

Ricardo Sandoval

Current Restaurants: Fat Cats, Lava Lounge, Felice
Previous Restaurants: D'Agnese's, Amici's, Red Tomato, La Cucina, Halite
First job in the biz: Busboy at Molly McGuire's (13 years old)
Shifting trends: It used to be that you had to market your restaurant as either Italian, Moroccan or American. That trend has been pushed aside. These days you can combine different cuisines in one place. We are no longer hemmed in by labels – it's all about what you're doing on the plate, the quality of ingredients. That is outstanding.
You want to do what?: When I opened D'Agnese's in 1989, everybody said to stay out of the restaurant business because it meant long hours and no fun. It's still long hours but now it's the hottest field going.
Bloggers!: I think they keep everybody honest. In this business you have to be on your toes all the time because you never know who's dining in your restaurant. That construction worker may have a huge following. If you feel comfortable with the product and service that you are putting out, you should have nothing to fear.
Nugget of wisdom: Everybody always says, "Location, location, location." But that seems easier to judge in hindsight.

George Schindler

Current Restaurants: Rosewood, Delmonico's, Blue Point, Salmon Dave's, Cabin Club
Previous Restaurants: By George!
First job in the biz: Washing dishes at Parma Community Hospital cafeteria (15 years old)
Shifting trends: People today are a great deal more in tune to good food then they were 30 years ago. When I got into the business T.G.I.Fridays was considered hip. There were only a handful of national chain restaurants.
Bloggers! There will always be a small percentage of people who are vocal about things that the majority of people don't put much credence in. Look, our business is certainly subject to opinions. And these days opinions come quicker and in more forms that you can keep track of. You have to be thick-skinned and take everything with grain of salt.
Nugget of wisdom: The concept of what good food is may change over time. But people will always expect and demand good service.

Clyde Mart

Current Restaurants: Clyde's
Previous Restaurants: Cippi & Mo's, Uptown Mo's, Gaylin's, Vito’s Italian Grill
First job in the biz: Owned meat processing plant
Shifting trends: Chain restaurants have became prominent in the business. There were no Carrabba's, Bravo and Brio. I think the reason chains were able to establish a foothold was because the independents didn't do as good a job as they should have. Chains forced independents to do a better job or get out.
Tech: When we got into this business, it never occurred to us how important technology and social networking was. Print advertising is being replaced by Craig's List.
Help Wanted: One night our sauté cook was in jail, the head chef was having a bad night, the ladies' room flooded, we were packed, and ticket times were over an hour. It was a nightmare. The key is to stay calm – it's happened before and it'll happen again. I told my managers and servers that nobody leaves unhappy – buy drinks, pick up checks, give gift certificates. If all else fails, tell everybody there's a fire in the kitchen and close the restaurant.
Nugget of wisdom: First and foremost, you need to be a good businessman. If it doesn’t work in the office, it doesn't work.

Sergio Abramof

Current Restaurants: Sergio's in University Circle, Sarava
Big break: Giovanni's Ristorante
First job in the biz: Better Butlers catering in high school
Shifting trends: The big story over the last few decades is the decline of the fine-dining market, which has been driven more by economic factors than people's changing tastes. We began noticing a difference way back at Giovanni's when changes to the tax code did away with the three-martini lunch. The downside is the lack of choices. In other cities there are both fine and casual restaurants. The best option is to have many options.
Bloggers!: Like any tool, technology can be a double-edged sword. It used to be that one or two food critics in town had all the power. Now the Internet has spread that power around. It's always difficult when you get a disgruntled person who posts something unfairly. But for every one of those we get 50 positive comments that expose us to a much broader audience.
Nugget of wisdom: Be honest and sincere with your guests and staff.

Marlin Kaplan

Current Restaurants: Luxe, Roseangel
Previous Restaurants: Marlin, Pig Heaven, Lira, One Walnut
First job in the biz: My career path went straight from button-down blue suit to under-sous chef. I didn't even know what under-sous meant. I still don't.
Shifting trends: In the late 1990s there was a movement toward fine dining, to see how sophisticated we could make the dining scene. After 9-11 it was all about comfort foods. Now I think the big story is the return to neighborhoods.
Bloggers!: I haven’t really embraced the concept of user reviews. I believe people need to come out and judge for themselves. Cleveland diners are independent; just because one person doesn't like something doesn't necessarily mean others won't.
What was I thinking?: My barbecue concept at Pig Heaven was a great idea in the wrong location at the wrong time.
Looking ahead: We'll see more small, neighborhood places. We're moving away from 200-seat mega-restaurants.
Nugget of wisdom: Good service brings people back.

Randal Johnson

Current Restaurants: Molinari's (1991)
Parchment: Culinary Institute of America
First job in the biz: Dishwashing at The Flame (17 years old)
Shifting trends: The definition of white tablecloth dining has changed. We call ourselves a white-paper-tablecloth bistro. We recognized that we needed to appeal to broader range of clientele and offer a broader range of price points. So I recently added a pizza oven at a cost of $65,000.
Bloggers!: I tend to ignore reviews because I take things too personally. People have their own opinions and they are entitled to. We concentrate on in-person customer relations.
What was I thinking?: I started Chef to Go, a line of packaged, prepared foods that we sold at the restaurant. We couldn't compete with the big boys. The concept crashed and burned after about a year and a half.
Nugget of wisdom: People are more enlightened these days about quality ingredients. We've been doing it all along and people are finally starting to get it.

Brad Friedlander

Current Restaurants: Moxie, Red, Red South Beach
Previous Restaurants: Lopez y Gonzales, Boca, Lopez on Lee, Mom's Diner
First job in the biz: Washing dishes at dad's restaurant, Alvie's (13 years old)
Shifting trends: With a lot of diners, it's not how good you are, but what's new. After 10 or 12 years in this business, you're considered old. At Moxie we struggled a bit with what we would do. We recently decided to not be so strict with our definition of regional American. We now offer more and broader choices.
Alfresco: People like to eat outside. Moxie built a patio about seven years ago. In Toronto, people dress appropriately and dine outdoors six or seven months out of the year. Here you get maybe three or four months. As patios become more popular, maybe our season will grow longer.
Old School: We were selling $700 per week in cigars in our upstairs cigar bar.
Bloggers!: I've had ex-employees go on Yelp and yelp. You can see the people who post one or two angry reviews as opposed to those with 30 or 40 legitimate ones. Some are very serious reviewers that post good recommendations. Everybody has license to say what they want to say. Nugget of wisdom: There's no secret to this business. It takes a tremendous amount of hard work and passion. We'd rather serve good food than make money.

Paul Minnillo

Previous Restaurants: Baricelli Inn (1984)
Coming Soon: Flour
First job in the biz: Cooking at dad's restaurant, Minnillo's (14 years old)
Shifting trends: Farm-to-table cooking is so important. These products are 100-percent better than what you can get from a commercial purveyor. It's day and night. You have to use the best ingredients you can get your hands on. I don't believe in skimping; I'll get out of the business before I ever do that.
Tech: I'm not doing Facebook! For me to go on OpenTable was a big deal. We get a lot of web reservations through them. If you miss out on that, you miss out on business.
Bloggers!: There are some good people who contribute something to the conversation. But there are also people who pass themselves off as connoisseurs that just trash places. These people can actually affect people's business. Do they know anything about food? Do they even know how to cook? It's scary what somebody with an Internet connection can do.
Progress: When Zack [Bruell] and I got into the restaurant business, Cleveland's dining scene was pathetic – I mean the food was not good. Now we are one of the top food cities in the country. We're lucky to have such talented chefs.
Nugget of wisdom: Spending $4,000 per month on linens is crazy.

Beachwood Barbacue Bonanza

For Clevelanders of a certain age, Hiroshi's Pub was one of the most popular watering holes in Cleveland Heights. The Lee Road bar, owned by sushi magnate Hiroshi Tsuji, specialized less in food than it did booze. That is not the case at the new Hiroshi's Pub, which opened last week in Beachwood (3365 Richmond Rd., 216.464.4665, hiroshispub.com). To go along with the large space is a sprawling menu that focuses primarily on sushi and barbecue, but hardly stops there. A large centrally located kitchen turns out numerous appetizers, salads, burgers, deli and panini sandwiches, gourmet hot dogs, and American-style comfort food. A hefty wood smoker, capable of slow-cooking 750 pounds of meat at a time, produces pulled pork, beef brisket, baby back and St. Louis ribs, smoked sausages, and smoked corned beef, fast becoming a house favorite. A modest sushi bar cranks out everything from tuna ceviche and scallop sashimi to yellowtail handrolls and shrimp tempura futomaki. A recent lunchtime visit netted a trio of delicious pulled pork sliders ($8.50), topped with coleslaw and served on buttery rolls. Fried onions garnished the outside of the White Dragon ($12.95), a large nine-piece roll filled with shrimp, albacore and wasabi mayo. We enjoyed the beef brisket more than the baby back ribs on the ribs-n-brisket platter ($14.95). A sharp redesign of the old Sumo space offers seating for 220 guests in multiple dining rooms, soft-seating areas, at the 36-seat bar, or out on the well-appointed front patio.

In other Beachwood barbecue news: Retired McDonald's franchise owner Caesar Burkes says that after a 12-year break, he's getting back in the restaurant biz. He is in the final stages of transforming the old Ly’s Thai Gourmet space Central Parkway into The Pit, a Southern barbecue joint. "I've been looking at that space for two years," says Burke. "Up until now, there's been no good barbecue in Beachwood. We're going to serve the best ribs you ever had." Slow-smoked over oak and hickory, items like chicken, pulled pork, baby back and St. Louis ribs, and beef brisket will be paired with down-home sides like cornbread, baked beans, and collard greens. Following some light cosmetic work, The Pit is expected to open in late August. Plans call for 150 seats inside and an additional 60 on the patio. "This is the right idea, in the right spot, at the right time," he adds.

Brandt Evans to Open Butcher's Block

"This is not going to be a Tri-C restaurant," stresses chef Brandt Evans as he unfurls a set of blueprints for his new downtown eatery. "Diners will not be guinea pigs for culinary students."

Brandt has good reason to fear diners will make such assumptions; his latest endeavor will share more than a little wall space with Cuyahoga Community College's new Hospitality Management Center, slated to open this fall in the May Co. building. When it opens in February, Evans' privately-owned Butcher's Block will likely be the most visible feature of the project. Fronting Public Square, the 120-seat restaurant will mark for the chef a return to hands-on bistro cooking. Described as sophisticated farmhouse cuisine, the Block will serve breakfast, lunch and lively tapas-style happy hours. Full-scale dinner may come down the road. Diners can look forward to a breakfast of smoked salmon, dill creamed cheese and grilled sourdough. At lunch, guests can sit at the bar for a speedy but luxe meal, or grab a salad and sandwich to go from the display coolers. Happy hours will be filled with creative cocktails and Mason jars of housemade pickles, confit, rillettes and pates. A smartphone app will inform customers of the heat-and-heat entrees available for quick pick-up.

"There is a lot you can do at a small restaurant that you can't do at one that serves 700 covers a night," says Evans, referring to his main gig, Blue Canyon (8960 Wilcox Dr., 330.486.2583, bluecanyonrestaurant.com). "I'm excited to cook more than pretzel-crusted trout. I got a lot more than that in my pocket, trust me."

Ghosts of Dinners Past

Mel Rose, the Taverne of Richfield, and the old Coliseum will forever be linked in an ill-fated love triangle that ultimately saw the death – both literally and figuratively – of all three. For nearly 20 years, Rose operated the historic restaurant that feasted on the business spilling out from his high-profile neighbor. After the Cavs split town and the Coliseum crumbled, Rose's beloved Taverne limped along for two years before doing the same.

After a 13-year hiatus, the Taverne of Richfield is back, opened this past fall by virgin restaurateur Craig Johnson. A retired telecom executive that grew up in the area, Johnson aims to restore the glory days of the Mel Rose era.

"I know I have big shoes to fill," Johnson explained. "Everybody is always saying how great and busy it was back when Mel owned it."

The way Johnson sees it, recent trends give today's Taverne of Richfield better odds of success than even the original. Scores of new residential developments have replaced the in-and-out visitors of Rose's day with full-time neighbors. And those residents, many of whom are well-off empty-nesters, are seeking the same caliber cuisine found in bigger burgs like Cleveland and Akron.

Who better, then, to satisfy those big-city cravings than a big-city chef? Most recently at Touch Supper Club in Ohio City, Jeff Fisher knows a thing or two about attracting diners to a "challenging" location. He does so by cramming huge flavors into modern yet approachable dishes. An advocate of local, seasonal foodstuffs, his appetite is well-fed by the farms and farmers of the nearby Cuyahoga Valley.

I'm guessing that Rose's Taverne never served items like deviled eggs ($6), plucked from the nests of local free-range birds. Spice-dusted whipped yolks are piped back into the whites, and the split eggs roost atop slices of zesty chorizo. (All the dish lacked was the promised greens.) Korean sliders ($8), intensely flavorful marinated beef slipped into soft white buns, come three to a plate. Pickled veggies add the snap; soy-ginger mayo adds the lube.

Available as an appetizer ($8), or married with lobster to form a lavish entrée ($26), Fisher's housemade ricotta gnocchi is an opulent treat. As a starter, the bouncy nubs are tossed with roasted tomatoes, arugula, basil oil, and plenty of parmesan. The kitchen also turns out appetizer portions of beer-steamed mussels pomme frites ($12), herb-dusted grilled flatbread ($6), and a goat cheese tart ($9) baked with Lake Erie Creamery cheese.

Entrees are a mix of yesterday and today, with contemporary dishes sharing menu space with conservative chestnuts. In deference to the old-schoolers, Fisher explained, items like veal schnitzel and chicken parmesan have been updated rather than expunged. That schnitzel ($16), for example, now arrives bearing a lingonberry gastrique. Straddling the line between old and new is a hefty one-pound bone-in pork chop ($20), topped with soy-braised mushrooms and a drizzle of spicy aioli. The chef's grilled scallops ($23) can best be described as timeless, sporting a good sear and laid to rest in a buttery smoked-tomato sauce with bacon, leeks and corn. In the "au currant" column is braised oxtail ravioli ($19), perfumed with truffle, lemon and parmesan.

Perhaps the most "dated" feature of the menu – apart from the grim wine list – is the custom of pairing each (and every) dish with the same starch and veg. Granted, Fisher's decadent potatoes au gratin and farm-fresh green beans are delicious, but nothing screams blue-hair like the phrase, "All entrees come with the starch and vegetable du jour." And while we're on the topic of dated: Something needs to be done about the filthy dining room carpet, which very likely was walked upon by Rose himself.

But evenings end on a high note at the Taverne, especially for those who order dessert. We savored every bite of ours, a dense orange-scented olive oil cake ($7), crowned with homemade goat cheese ice cream. At once sweet, tart and savory, the dessert left an absolutely delightful taste in our mouths and minds. Another, the almond panna cotta ($7), is garnished with a chunk of local honeycomb.

Like musicians, chefs maintain a portfolio of work, and it's not uncommon for them to reprise their hits at future gigs. Fisher, at least for now, seems to be relying too much on performing his classics rather than writing new tunes. A full third of the menu comes straight from his days at Touch, right down to the free-sushi Fridays. But judging by the crowds, which locals say are the largest since Big Mel himself ran the joint, this band may be here to stay.


Taverne of Richfield
3960 Broadview Rd., Richfield
330.659.0610