Monday, June 28, 2010
Triskett to Replace Monday at Downtown 140
Thanks in no small part to a positive recommendation from his predecessor and mentor, Don Triskett will takeover as executive chef of Downtown 140 (140 N. Main St., 330.656.1294, downtown140.com). Triskett replaces Shawn Monday, who left to open two new restaurants of his own. This is a homecoming of sorts for Triskett, who was Monday's original sous chef when he opened Downtown 140 seven years ago. Triskett also has worked at Giovanni's, Moxie and L'Albatros. "We're sticking with the format of the menu, with smallest, small and not-so-small plates," Triskett says. "But I have complete creative control to make the menu my own." Like Monday, the chef relies on fresh, seasonal ingredients but augments them with global touches. Diners can look forward to new items like phyllo spring rolls filled with Killbuck Valley mushrooms, fresh ginger, shaved asparagus and Ohio goat cheese. Flash-fried potato gnocchi will be paired with beer-braised short ribs, caramelized pearl onions and crème fraiche. A twist on tom yum gai will feature halibut, shitakes and watercress in a spicy curry broth. Triskett's first day is June 21.
Cleveland's Delicious Cocktail Revival
It was only a matter of time until Cleveland's cocktail scene began to catch up with its food scene. Just as local chefs now routinely rely on fresh ingredients to construct their menus, area bartenders are following suit. Vanishing from bars are the bottles of Rose's concentrated lime juice, replaced by freshly cut citrus, squeezed at the last possible moment. Fading, too, are apathetic bar jockeys who know little and care less about the spirits behind them and the people in front of them. Today's enlightened bartender – or bar chef, or mixologist – is truly passionate about the art and craft of the cocktail.
"With the evolution of the dining scene in Cleveland, customers are becoming more educated and sophisticated about food," explains David Haynes, bartender at Dante. "That sophistication naturally carries over into cocktails. Customers are no longer satisfied with a cold Budweiser."
That trend often appears in the form of classic cocktails, a category of pre-Prohibition drinks with names like Manhattan, Sazerac, Aviation and Old-Fashioned. In many of Cleveland's top bars and restaurants, artificially colored "martinis" are giving way to refined potions with balance, complexity and pedigree. More than just nostalgia for the "good old days," this classic cocktail craze signifies the dawning of the second Golden Age of Cocktails.
"You see it any every market – pre-Prohibition era cocktails are always the beginning of an improved cocktail culture," says Chris Minnillo, bartender at Duck Island Club. "You can't run until you can walk, and these drinks are the foundation for all that followed. They aren't classics for no reason; they stand the test of time because they taste great."
The reason they taste great is no accident, adds Minnillo. Like any great recipe, they adhere to a formula that produces equilibrium and deliciousness. The heat of the alcohol is offset by the sweetness of fruit or simple syrup. Aromatic bitters add depth and enhance flavors. Citrus notes brighten the drink while water or ice softens the blow. Truly a sum-of-its-parts creation, a well-crafted cocktail can be a revelation to imbibers accustomed to one-dimensional drinks.
Since opening the Velvet Tango Room nearly 15 years ago, Paulius Nasvytis has been championing classic cocktails in much the same way Parker Bosley did for local cuisine. His dedication to fresh ingredients, impeccable technique, and unwavering consistency has served as inspiration to a new generation of bartenders.
"Bartending went from being an honorable profession before entering a downward spiral accelerated by the advent of cocktails with stupid names and crappy ingredients," notes Nasvytis. "A whole generation of bartenders lost the ability to make a proper drink. It's a whole different game now. A lot of younger bartenders have been taking notice of what we're doing here and are following suit."
And that's precisely what it will take to expand this trend beyond a small niche of well-heeled cocktail geeks. More often than not, it's because of a trusted bartender that a customer will first venture into that great cocktail unknown. A diner who trusts a chef is more likely to spring for one of his or her more creative specials. Same holds true when bending elbows at the bar.
"A bartender shouldn't just be an order-taker," says Joe DeLuca, owner of the consulting company Beverage Resources. "A bartender should educate the guest and inspire them to try new products. They should be able to offer historical perspective on classic cocktails and spirits. We don't want chefs in the kitchen who don't know their cuts of beef, and we shouldn't have bartenders that don't know their spirits."
Thanks in no small part to Nasvytis at VTR, Cleveland is enjoying the same sort of cocktail revolution that is taking place in New York, San Francisco and Philadelphia, albeit on a much smaller scale. But Cleveland might also be better than those cities when it comes to learning the ropes.
"What's great about Cleveland as opposed to some of the larger markets is that we have places where customers can step gradually into the scene," says Everest Curley, a former bartender now with Premium Beverage. "It can be very intimidating ordering a drink in some of those other places."
At Dragonfly, bartender Mike Gulley is doing his part to get customers excited about fine spirits and drinks. In addition to crafting classic cocktails with modern flair, Gulley holds informal seminars on liquors and mixology.
"We need to get the younger crowd interested in cocktail culture," Gulley says. "The way we do that is with the democratization of the cocktail – making them more approachable, less pretentious, and more affordable. I mean it in the nicest way when I say Velvet Tango Room is a museum, while we're an amusement park. I want you to come here and experience three different cocktails, not just one."
We'll drink to that.
WHERE TO SAMPLE CLEVELAND'S FINEST
As Paulius Nasvytis likes to say, "You can't boil an egg until you learn how to boil water." At Velvet Tango Room (2095 Columbus Rd., 216.241.8869, velvettangoroom.com), tipplers can sip faithful representations of history's finest elixirs. To ensure exacting consistency, cocktails are built gram by gram on a chemist's scale. Try the Ramos Gin Fizz, a labor-intensive beverage made from small-batch gin, orange blossom water, citrus juices and egg whites that has the ethereal consistency of clouds.
"The reason I go to work everyday is so that I can buy a cocktail at Velvet Tango Room," says Chris Minnillo of Duck Island (2102 Freeman Ave., 216.621.7676). "But at $15 a pop, who can afford more than one?" In Minnillo's hands, less expensive spirits are transformed into well balanced – and affordable – cocktails so that we can say, "Another round, please," without flinching. Duck Island's Manhattan may not be made with $60 rye, but the drink still tastes like a million bucks.
"I like to take cocktails from the Golden Age and put a modern spin on them," says David Haynes of Dante (2247 Professor Ave., 216.274.1200, restaurantdante.us). As comfortable behind the range as he is the bar, Haynes is a bona fide "bar chef," artfully melding spirits with kitchen ingredients to deeply satisfying results. To pack three layers of olive flavor into his Dirty, Filthy, Nasty martini, he mixes the gin with kalamata olive brine, floats the drink with olive brine foam, and garnishes it with chopped dehydrated olives. Filthy delicious.
A well-crafted cocktail is never one-dimensional; it should produce a harmonious symphony of flavors – and maybe a surprise. Take a sip of Crop Bistro's (1400 W. 6th St., 216.696.CROP, cropbistro.com) New Fashioned and you'll experience successive waves of heat, sweet, sugar and spice. Maker's Mark bourbon is muddled with chipotle-cured cherries, providing a bracing but welcome dose of spice in the finish. That subtle kick in the pants makes it impossible to ignore your drink.
Taking things to the next level is Mike Gulley of Dragonfly(1865 W. 25th St., 216.696.7774, dragonflycleveland.com). Part of a growing trend of molecular mixologists, Gulley uses high-tech equipment and techniques to produce unconventional – yet delicious – cocktails. In a process called "fat washing," bacon flavor is introduced to bourbon while leaving no actual fat. That bourbon is then used to make a meaty Old Fashioned. When topped with maple syrup foam, it becomes the breakfast of barflies.
In Hot Pursuit: Dim and Den Sum
Apparently, dogs aren't the only beings that chase vehicles. Since news broke that a couple of local chefs were launching a gourmet kitchen on wheels, area foodies have been tracking its progress like hungry hounds in hot pursuit. Now that Dim and Den Sum officially has hit the streets, that hunt can begin in earnest.
Judging by all the attention this upstart has garnered, it is patently clear that in the area of mobile dining, demand has thus far exceeded supply. While food trucks have become a tasty way of life in cities like New York, Los Angeles and Portland, Cleveland has been disappointingly bereft of them. Apart from a polish boy rig and the usual cadre of ice cream trucks and hotdog carts, this town is the pits for street food.
The likely explanation for this is that it's much easier for a chef to open a bona fide restaurant in Cleveland than it is for those working in other large metropolitan areas where rents are higher. But the nation's prolonged economic slump appears to have a silver lining for us street food fans: more and more chefs are choosing rubber over bricks and mortar.
Launched this spring by Jeremy Esterly and Chris Hodgson, Dim and Den Sum serves Midwestern and Southern comfort foods from a fully equipped Chevy step van. As the name vaguely suggests, most items are small in size and boast Asian twists. Esterly resigned his post as chef de cuisine at Doug Katz' Fire Food and Drink to hop on this gravy train, while Hodgson decamped from New York City, where he was cooking at the loveable Spotted Pig.
Apart from taking money and serving food, Dim and Den Sum breaks with nearly every tenet of restaurant law. For starters, it's a bitch to track down. Unlike restaurants, which excel at standing still, this prey is maddeningly elusive. One day it's at an office park in Mayfield, the next it's feeding a crowd way the heck out in Oberlin. Evenings are no different, when the movable feast sets up shop outside a different late-night establishment every other night of the week. Fortunately, social media tools like Twitter and Facebook make it easy for diners to keep tabs on the truck's ever-shifting locale.
The one consistent venue so far has been Tremont's Flying Monkey Pub, in front of which you can find the boldly painted truck every Friday night. What began as a one-off experiment has blossomed into a mutually beneficial symbiotic relationship, says Monkey owner Amy Snyder.
"We don't have a kitchen here," explains Snyder, "so having the truck here keeps our customers from leaving to go elsewhere. But they don't serve alcohol, so their customers come inside, buy beers, and eat their food here."
Approaching the truck just before midnight on a Friday, I was greeted in successive waves by diesel fumes, frying bacon, and deep-fried something-or-other. Despite a queue nearly 15-deep, the entire process of ordering and paying (cash only) ran smoothly. I ordered two of everything and joined my pals inside the pub. Within minutes, we were digging into a mess of deliriously good grub. Two fun-size short rib sliders ($3/ea) – small, soft buns filled with tender beef and corn salsa – were the first casualties. Gone in 60 seconds, too, were the pulled pork sliders ($3/ea). We particularly enjoyed the crunch provided by the sesame-scented seaweed salad that topped the meat. But the best in the bunch, we agreed, was the PBLT ($6), a larger sandwich layered with roasted pork shoulder, bacon, greens and spicy sriracha mayo. Worst? The brisket sandwich ($6), which was tougher than rawhide and oddly garnished with baked beans.
We never did get to sample the truffle-salted tater tots ($2.50) because the truck ran out less than an hour into service – a recurring issue, I'm told. But running out of food is a good problem to have. In fact, Esterly and Hodgson have been refilling their truck's larder twice a day to keep up with the lunch and late-night demand. Splitting their time between the West Side Market, the rig, and their Ohio City commissary, the guys have been working 19-hour days. That's just fine with Hodgson, a super-charged 24-year-old.
"I'm the baby compared to [34-year-old] Jeremy," says Hodgson. "He's the one that's always saying 'Slow down, you're killing me.'"
But slowing down doesn't seem to be part of the plan. Hodgson says the truck is just the beginning – "A way to get our name out there and make some money." In the works are a wine bar, late-night supper club, noodle bar and a cookbook. Catch them, if you can.
Dim and Den Sum
www.facebook.com/dimndensum
@DimAndDenSum
602-677-1844
Judging by all the attention this upstart has garnered, it is patently clear that in the area of mobile dining, demand has thus far exceeded supply. While food trucks have become a tasty way of life in cities like New York, Los Angeles and Portland, Cleveland has been disappointingly bereft of them. Apart from a polish boy rig and the usual cadre of ice cream trucks and hotdog carts, this town is the pits for street food.
The likely explanation for this is that it's much easier for a chef to open a bona fide restaurant in Cleveland than it is for those working in other large metropolitan areas where rents are higher. But the nation's prolonged economic slump appears to have a silver lining for us street food fans: more and more chefs are choosing rubber over bricks and mortar.
Launched this spring by Jeremy Esterly and Chris Hodgson, Dim and Den Sum serves Midwestern and Southern comfort foods from a fully equipped Chevy step van. As the name vaguely suggests, most items are small in size and boast Asian twists. Esterly resigned his post as chef de cuisine at Doug Katz' Fire Food and Drink to hop on this gravy train, while Hodgson decamped from New York City, where he was cooking at the loveable Spotted Pig.
Apart from taking money and serving food, Dim and Den Sum breaks with nearly every tenet of restaurant law. For starters, it's a bitch to track down. Unlike restaurants, which excel at standing still, this prey is maddeningly elusive. One day it's at an office park in Mayfield, the next it's feeding a crowd way the heck out in Oberlin. Evenings are no different, when the movable feast sets up shop outside a different late-night establishment every other night of the week. Fortunately, social media tools like Twitter and Facebook make it easy for diners to keep tabs on the truck's ever-shifting locale.
The one consistent venue so far has been Tremont's Flying Monkey Pub, in front of which you can find the boldly painted truck every Friday night. What began as a one-off experiment has blossomed into a mutually beneficial symbiotic relationship, says Monkey owner Amy Snyder.
"We don't have a kitchen here," explains Snyder, "so having the truck here keeps our customers from leaving to go elsewhere. But they don't serve alcohol, so their customers come inside, buy beers, and eat their food here."
Approaching the truck just before midnight on a Friday, I was greeted in successive waves by diesel fumes, frying bacon, and deep-fried something-or-other. Despite a queue nearly 15-deep, the entire process of ordering and paying (cash only) ran smoothly. I ordered two of everything and joined my pals inside the pub. Within minutes, we were digging into a mess of deliriously good grub. Two fun-size short rib sliders ($3/ea) – small, soft buns filled with tender beef and corn salsa – were the first casualties. Gone in 60 seconds, too, were the pulled pork sliders ($3/ea). We particularly enjoyed the crunch provided by the sesame-scented seaweed salad that topped the meat. But the best in the bunch, we agreed, was the PBLT ($6), a larger sandwich layered with roasted pork shoulder, bacon, greens and spicy sriracha mayo. Worst? The brisket sandwich ($6), which was tougher than rawhide and oddly garnished with baked beans.
We never did get to sample the truffle-salted tater tots ($2.50) because the truck ran out less than an hour into service – a recurring issue, I'm told. But running out of food is a good problem to have. In fact, Esterly and Hodgson have been refilling their truck's larder twice a day to keep up with the lunch and late-night demand. Splitting their time between the West Side Market, the rig, and their Ohio City commissary, the guys have been working 19-hour days. That's just fine with Hodgson, a super-charged 24-year-old.
"I'm the baby compared to [34-year-old] Jeremy," says Hodgson. "He's the one that's always saying 'Slow down, you're killing me.'"
But slowing down doesn't seem to be part of the plan. Hodgson says the truck is just the beginning – "A way to get our name out there and make some money." In the works are a wine bar, late-night supper club, noodle bar and a cookbook. Catch them, if you can.
Dim and Den Sum
www.facebook.com/dimndensum
@DimAndDenSum
602-677-1844
A Candy-Colored Clown
Sitting just inside the front windows of the Chocolate Bar, my wife and I had unobstructed views of E. Fourth Street. From our vantage point on Euclid, we could see scores of diners enjoying alfresco meals outside restaurants like Greenhouse Tavern, Lola, and Chinato – and we so desperately wished to join them. Just minutes before, we had been two of those happy people, celebrating the warm air with cool cocktails and loud friends. Having to watch the party from afar left us feeling a bit like pariahs.In this business, they say, “A block away is a mile away,” and though Chocolate Bar is no more than 200 feet from Fourth Street, it seems completely separate from the action.
Alcohol helped, as it often does, arriving in the form of two shapely martinis ($9.95). Taking the bait dangled by our server – "My favorite martinis," he said, "are the chocolate and the coconut macaroon." – we held out little hope for drinks with bite. But contrary to our assumptions, the martinis proved to be both dark and stormy, tempering the sweet with welcome heat. Devouring both contents and straw (they're chocolate, natch), we mustered the strength to persevere.
For six years this high-profile location in the Old Arcade had been home to a Chicago import: Vivo. Since fall, it has been appropriated by an interloper from Buffalo. The first franchise of that popular five-year-old outfit, the Cleveland Chocolate Bar was opened by Joe Novak, a former construction company owner. Novak was so impressed by what he saw in Buffalo that he cut short his retirement to open one of his own. What intrigued him most, he told me, was the profusion of martini-drinking women.
Chocolate Bar lands in that nether region between nightclub and restaurant. And while moderately successful as either, it truly excels at neither. It's a cute place to grab a cocktail with friends, but a lack of suitable bar munchies makes it a challenge to drink for long without falling over. During restaurant mode, the budget-friendly menu has some cherries, but a diner can just as easily end up with a lemon.
As expected, chocolate dominates the cocktail and dessert menus. But it also finds its way into numerous savory dishes as well, and the results aren't always "sweet." One of the most popular entrees, we were told by our server, is the Chocolate Bar pasta ($7.95). Indeed, the description on the menu sounded promising: fresh pasta, white chocolate cream sauce, fresh basil. On the plate, however, those very ingredients conspired to create a thick, gloppy, cloying nest. It didn't help matters that the pasta was extremely overcooked.
Far more successful is the Mexican pork tenderloin ($11.95), which benefits from a lively spice rub containing cocoa and chile powders. This dish works precisely for the reasons the pasta doesn't, namely, the sweetness is faint and offset by heat. Sliced into thick coins, the moist, rosy pork is served with tasty but run-of-the-mill roasted spuds. A chocolate-slathered and toasted baguette ($8.95) proved surprisingly appealing, but why it was served with olive oil dipping sauce is beyond me.
We had much better luck at lunchtime, when we avoided chocolate-based items altogether. Salads tend to be big, fresh and flavorful, and sandwiches well-built and toasted to order. The Buffalo chicken cobb ($8.95) is loaded with crisp bacon, blue cheese, red onion, and diced Buffalo-style chicken meat. Another salad pairs fresh berries with feta and candied pecans. There are a dozen sandwiches, many of them grilled and served warm. The Ski Country ($7.59) astutely melds honey ham, cheddar cheese, and thinly sliced apples, while the Bella ($7.79) treats vegetarians to a baguette stuffed with roasted 'shrooms, peppers and goat cheese.
It's true that the space Chocolate Bar occupies is a knockout, a high-ceilinged affair with cosmopolitan flair. But the plastic laminated menus, T-shirts and roses available for purchase, and perpetual showing of Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory aren't doing the atmosphere any favors. We'd gladly belly up to the bar for another round of those of those kicky martinis, but the menu's appetizer section lacks appropriate snacks. Items like baked brie with chutney ($8.95) and spinach and artichoke dip ($8.49) seem better suited for a cocktail party than a cocktail bar.
Of course, if you enjoy pairing martinis with mousses, there are fewer better bars in which to do it. Equal in length to the food menu, Chocolate Bar's dessert menu is jam packed with all matter of cakes, creams, crepes and campfire faves. Diners who aren't yet plowed can toast their own marshmallows and assemble their own smores ($11.95).
Chocolate Bar
347 Euclid Ave., Cleveland
216.622.2626
Monday, June 14, 2010
Chef Jam 2010 at Rock Hall
What started last year as a homegrown, grass-roots, come-if-you-feel-like-it foodie fundraiser has quickly blossomed into the can't-miss bash of the year. Staged at the Rock Hall, this year's Chef Jam essentially got promoted from a backyard barbecue to a five-star extravaganza. Like any great performance this one was standing-room-only, having burned through the 1,000 or so tickets nearly a week before the event. In attendance were 25 of Cleveland's finest chefs and restaurants – many dressed up in rock-and-roll attire – and the diners who love them.
To go with the surroundings, all of the food had a musical theme. Highlights from the menu include Amp 150's Rolling Stones-inspired beef tongue with cabbage slaw, Moxie's "Dark Side of the Moon" pies, Happy Dog's “Ain’t Nothin’ but a Hound” dogs, Dante's LSD (lemon-scented donuts), and ABC "the" Tavern's Meatloaf meatloaf. Because they were spread out among the various floors of the museum, the food stations and bars never received the kind of mosh-pit swarm so often seen at food fundraisers.
Yours truly had the honor of judging the Maker's Mark Challenge along with author Michael Ruhlman and food writer Laura Taxel. Contestant restaurants composed dishes – soups, entrees, desserts… - that utilized the Kentucky bourbon in some creative way. Dishes were evaluated for taste, originality, presentation and best use of the spirit. Dante Boccuzzi ran away with the top honors for his lobster and gnocchi bathed in a fragrant vanilla-bourbon sauce. His prize: a trip down to Maker's Mark to tour the distillery and bottle his own hooch.
Music fans were treated not only to the museum's killer memorabilia (Hello, Jerry Garcia's guitars) but also live performances by restaurant garage bands from Melange, Happy Dog and Crop. Cream of the Crop – chef Steve Schimoler's talented crew – got a little help from a dude named Todd Rundgren, who stole the show with his good licks and humble 'tude. For the encore, die-hard partiers made their way to Crop Bistro for some late-night cocktails (try the "New-Fashioned"), improvisational cooking from Dante, and informal bar chat with Rundgren.
Here's a tip: Get yer tickets for next year's event early!
*Photo courtesy Metromix Cleveland
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Karen Small to Add Another Small Eatery
The Flying Fig (2523 Market Ave., 216.241.4243, theflyingfig.com) will soon have a new neighbor: The Market at the Fig. Owner Karen Small says that she had been exploring potential sites for a gourmet retail market when a light went off in her head. "I thought, I have this other room with a separate entrance that gets used maybe once a week," she says, referring to the Fig's private dining room. "And it already has a kitchen." Small describes the operation as a European-style shop that offers grab-and-go soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees. Ingredients will be the best locally available, such as Tea Hills poultry, Aaron Miller beef, and Blackbird Bakery pastries. The market will also sell beer, wine and small-batch domestic cheeses. Hours will be 10 to 10 daily except Mondays.
Deagan's Kitchen Coming to Lakewood
Chef Demetrios Atheneos is leaving his post at Bodega (1854 Coventry Rd., 216.932.3060, bodegaoncoventry.com) to join the team at the soon-to-open Deagan's Kitchen and Bar (14810 Detroit Ave.). Dan Deagan is presently reworking the old Crazy Rita's space in Lakewood into a warm, upscale pub with exposed brick walls and salvaged barn siding. Chef Atheneos describes the food as "chef-driven pub fare with a twist," applying playful touches to traditional pub cuisine. Diners can look forward to things like truffle fries, Italian sausage sliders, soy chile-glazed wings, tuna tartare, as well as salads, sandwiches and entrees. A new draft beer system will dispense 30 craft selections. Look for an early August opening.
Lola Loses Sweet Pastry Chef
Michael Symon's star pastry chef Cory Barrett has left Cleveland to accept a job at The Herbfarm, a highly regarded restaurant near Seattle. "I want to say thank you to all of the Cleveland diners," Barrett says. "They have more than impressed me over the years. While I am very excited about the position, it is with hesitation that I am leaving my friends and colleagues here at Lola." Liz Wienclaw, Lola's former pastry sous chef, will be promoted to fill the post.
Henry's at the Barn: Gone to Pasture
This fall would have been four years in business for Henry’s at the Barn, the wonderful Low Country restaurant run by Paul and Tracey Jagielski. But that won't happen as the owners and the restaurant became the latest victim of a brutal dining economy. "It's sad to say we had to close," says Paul. "Fine dining is taking a hit. This recession is worse than people realize." Jagielski says he taking a break from the business but may get back in the game if he finds the right space and concept.
Herschman Brings Mojo to Larchmere
If you don't think that big name chefs influence a restaurant's development, consider the case of menu6. In the early planning stages of his Larchmere Boulevard project, owner Said Ouaddaadaa envisioned opening a hip neighborhood steakhouse. His intention was to plug the chophouse gap that existed between Beachwood and Public Square. But he also wanted a partner in the kitchen with draw – a buzz-worthy pro with instant name recognition. A guy like Michael Herschman.
Once Herschman signed on as chef, a new concept began to emerge, one that veered from simple (steakhouse) to mathematically byzantine (six categories of six items). In the end, a sort of hybrid emerged. Now, alongside contemporary steaks, chops and filets are Herschman's signature Pacific Rim-tinged seafood dishes. Depending on one's point of view, this either is a best-of-both-worlds situation or a case of dish disharmony.
One can debate the merits of mingling on the same menu bone-in rib steaks and mussels in green curry till the grass-fed cows come home. But those armchair assessments quickly lose gravity as soon as the food begins to arrive. Eye-catching, multifaceted, and utterly enjoyable to devour, Herschman's food keeps diners on the edge of their seats.
While every other joint in town is slinging "gourmet" wings, menu6 is turning out crispy tempura-fried shrimp ($8) with aromatic peanut-coconut sauce. Now that's finger food. Better still are the limited-time-only soft shell crabs ($29). Three fat, succulent whales – the largest variety – are five spice-dusted, deep fat-fried, cleaved in half, and served with a spicy Thai-style cashew dipping sauce. Memories of that dish will sustain me clear until next year's soft shell season.
If one were to draw a Venn diagram for steakhouses and Pacific Rim cuisine, one of the few elements to land at the crossroads would be raw fish. Menu6 takes the classic chophouse raw bar and nudges it to the Far East by adding thick-sliced sashimi to the usual just-shucked oysters and clams. Buttery blocks of tuna ($7), yellowtail ($7) and scallop ($7) are served with pickled ginger, wasabi and micro-greens. Parties of two or more should seriously consider ordering the glistening raw platter ($25-$36), which combines sashimi, oysters and clams with poached shrimp, creamy seafood salad and caviar-dolloped crostini.
Menu6 bills itself as "food forward," but the irony is that many of the dishes come straight out of Herschman's past. Mojo closed its doors seven years ago, but fan faves like sweet and spicy calamari ($7), green curry-spiked mussels ($13), crispy spicy tofu ($8), and four-cheese penne ($7) all make encore appearances on Larchmere. But that hardly means the chef is standing still. Numerous specials give even the most frequent flyers something fresh to try on each visit. Recent features include smoked bacon chowder with crunchy mussel fritters; mushroom-dusted halibut with warm ramp and mushroom salad; and scallop crudo with roasted jalapeno gazpacho.
Bearing at least some steakhouse DNA, menu6 offers a robust and contemporary selection of meats and chops. A deftly grilled and texturally appealing prosciutto-wrapped filet ($25) is on hand for conservative meat-and-potato diners. Unabashed beefeaters, meanwhile, will assuredly gravitate to the one-pound USDA prime bone-in rib steak ($32). Diners who covet a deep char on their chops will want to pass on the salt-roasted ribeye ($28), a technique that leaves the meat supple but also salty and sear-free.
Much has been made of menu6's mathematical menu maneuvers. In theory, the "6" in the restaurant's name was to serve as a rule of construction, whereby six different categories would contain six items. In practice the concept is taken less literally as some contain just four while others exceed their allowance with seven. In reality, it's not as confusing as it sounds, with sections devoted to raw bar, salads, starters, meats, seafood and sides.
Like the main menu, the wine list is broken into six categories – and the method works flawlessly. Looking for a dry, crisp white wine? There is a grouping of 10 of them, including a minty Gobelsburger Grüner ($10). Need a bold red to pair with a steak? More than a dozen choices fit the bill. Also on hand are wine flights, craft beers, and modern cocktails built with the trendiest liqueurs and spirits.
A modest but effective makeover has given the old Boulevard Blue space a dramatic new look. The raised platform in the rear of the room that long supported jazz bands was reworked into a snazzy semi-private dining nook. A roomy chef's table now sits directly in front of the open kitchen. That's great news for Herschman, a chef who is as comfortable in front of the pass as he is behind it.
Menu6
12718 Larchmere Blvd., Cleveland
216.791.6649
Once Herschman signed on as chef, a new concept began to emerge, one that veered from simple (steakhouse) to mathematically byzantine (six categories of six items). In the end, a sort of hybrid emerged. Now, alongside contemporary steaks, chops and filets are Herschman's signature Pacific Rim-tinged seafood dishes. Depending on one's point of view, this either is a best-of-both-worlds situation or a case of dish disharmony.
One can debate the merits of mingling on the same menu bone-in rib steaks and mussels in green curry till the grass-fed cows come home. But those armchair assessments quickly lose gravity as soon as the food begins to arrive. Eye-catching, multifaceted, and utterly enjoyable to devour, Herschman's food keeps diners on the edge of their seats.
While every other joint in town is slinging "gourmet" wings, menu6 is turning out crispy tempura-fried shrimp ($8) with aromatic peanut-coconut sauce. Now that's finger food. Better still are the limited-time-only soft shell crabs ($29). Three fat, succulent whales – the largest variety – are five spice-dusted, deep fat-fried, cleaved in half, and served with a spicy Thai-style cashew dipping sauce. Memories of that dish will sustain me clear until next year's soft shell season.
If one were to draw a Venn diagram for steakhouses and Pacific Rim cuisine, one of the few elements to land at the crossroads would be raw fish. Menu6 takes the classic chophouse raw bar and nudges it to the Far East by adding thick-sliced sashimi to the usual just-shucked oysters and clams. Buttery blocks of tuna ($7), yellowtail ($7) and scallop ($7) are served with pickled ginger, wasabi and micro-greens. Parties of two or more should seriously consider ordering the glistening raw platter ($25-$36), which combines sashimi, oysters and clams with poached shrimp, creamy seafood salad and caviar-dolloped crostini.
Menu6 bills itself as "food forward," but the irony is that many of the dishes come straight out of Herschman's past. Mojo closed its doors seven years ago, but fan faves like sweet and spicy calamari ($7), green curry-spiked mussels ($13), crispy spicy tofu ($8), and four-cheese penne ($7) all make encore appearances on Larchmere. But that hardly means the chef is standing still. Numerous specials give even the most frequent flyers something fresh to try on each visit. Recent features include smoked bacon chowder with crunchy mussel fritters; mushroom-dusted halibut with warm ramp and mushroom salad; and scallop crudo with roasted jalapeno gazpacho.
Bearing at least some steakhouse DNA, menu6 offers a robust and contemporary selection of meats and chops. A deftly grilled and texturally appealing prosciutto-wrapped filet ($25) is on hand for conservative meat-and-potato diners. Unabashed beefeaters, meanwhile, will assuredly gravitate to the one-pound USDA prime bone-in rib steak ($32). Diners who covet a deep char on their chops will want to pass on the salt-roasted ribeye ($28), a technique that leaves the meat supple but also salty and sear-free.
Much has been made of menu6's mathematical menu maneuvers. In theory, the "6" in the restaurant's name was to serve as a rule of construction, whereby six different categories would contain six items. In practice the concept is taken less literally as some contain just four while others exceed their allowance with seven. In reality, it's not as confusing as it sounds, with sections devoted to raw bar, salads, starters, meats, seafood and sides.
Like the main menu, the wine list is broken into six categories – and the method works flawlessly. Looking for a dry, crisp white wine? There is a grouping of 10 of them, including a minty Gobelsburger Grüner ($10). Need a bold red to pair with a steak? More than a dozen choices fit the bill. Also on hand are wine flights, craft beers, and modern cocktails built with the trendiest liqueurs and spirits.
A modest but effective makeover has given the old Boulevard Blue space a dramatic new look. The raised platform in the rear of the room that long supported jazz bands was reworked into a snazzy semi-private dining nook. A roomy chef's table now sits directly in front of the open kitchen. That's great news for Herschman, a chef who is as comfortable in front of the pass as he is behind it.
Menu6
12718 Larchmere Blvd., Cleveland
216.791.6649
Patios, Courtyards, Verandahs and Sidewalks
Cleveland's summers may not be getting any longer, but our restaurant-patio crop continues to grow every single year. Not long ago, a diner could count on two hands the number of eateries boasting alfresco seating. These days, not only are there literally dozens of open-air options, but the quality of those patios keeps getting better and better.
Outdoor Bars!
L’Albatros inherited one of Cleveland's finest patios when it took over the old That Place on Bellflower space. It has since only gotten better. This leafy retreat accommodates cosmopolitan diners at standard tables, chic soft seating groupings, and a granite-topped bar.
Eat: Assortment of fine cheeses
Drink: Veuve Clicquot’s “Yellow Label”
Felice Urban Café is perhaps best known for its charming Craftsman-style home setting. But soon, the patio will be the talk of the town. When it's completed next month, an old wooden garage beneath a towering oak will be converted to an alfresco bar, giving new meaning to the phrase "neighborhood buzz."
Eat: Grilled skirt steak with chimichurri
Drink: Spanish red Rioja
Luxe Kitchen has built a Zen-like patio that serves as an oasis from the urban landscape that surrounds it. The multi-level patio with new plank decking features cypress trees in industrial planters and an outdoor bar with bold sailcloth canopies to shield the sun. Hit the doggie-friendly Sunday brunch.
Eat: Rustic egg torta
Drink: Bellini
Garage Bar, as one might expect, has a kick-ass patio that lacks pretention. A massive outdoor bar is protected by a tin roof, but there's also plenty of open-air space to enjoy the sky. Roll up on your Harley and enjoy the brand new outdoor kitchen.
Eat: Slow-smoked bbq ribs
Drink: PBR Tallboy
Metro Bar + Kitchen, it can be argued, possesses the primo Warehouse District perch for people watching. That perch will get a whole heck of a lot better when the swanky new indoor/outdoor patio is completed this month. An alfresco bar and new soft seating will wrap clear around two sides of the building, making this sidewalk patio the largest in the area.
Eat: Metro burger
Drink: Jameson’s-spiked milkshake
Tremont Tap House wisely installed a rolldown shutter that slides away in warm weather, connecting the exterior patio with the restaurant's interior bar. Brilliant! Better still is the selection – some three-dozen draft crafts, many available nowhere else but here.
Eat: Mussels frites
Drink: Belgian-style white beer
New and/or Improved
Momocho, thanks in no small part to a meandering mulberry tree, was forced to tear up its original patio and start fresh. The tree is history, replaced by graceful lilacs, new cedar fencing, industrial lighting, and crisp umbrellas. Gone, too, are the ankle-twisting pavers, which have been swapped with a smooth and seamless patch of fresh concrete.
Eat: Braised-goat taquitos
Drink: Blood orange margarita
Crop Bistro benefitted from last year's Warehouse District sidewalk-widening project, claiming four feet from W. 6th Street. That gives patio diners more room to spread out and enjoy chef Steve Schimoler's modern and seasonal American fare.
Eat: Chicken-fried chicken and waffles
Drink: Maker's Mark New Fashioned
Rosewood Grill gives south suburbanites a posh new place to plop outdoors. Hospitality Restaurants' new Hudson eatery sports a 50-seat patio with a 12-foot gas fire pit and stadium-style stone slab seating. Don't fret; there are bottom-friendly chairs as well.
Eat: Texas T-bone
Drink: Spellbound petite sirah
Clifton Martini and Wine Bar may not yet sound familiar, but the restaurant's sprawling front patio will certainly look familiar. Set in the former home of Velocity, Giovanna's, Mise, Jeso…, the new wine bar inherited one of the roomiest and most beloved verandas on the West Side.
Eat: Super lump crab cakes
Drink: Wolf Gewurztraminer
(Outdoor) Rooms with a View
Bistro on Lincoln Park, as the name suggests, is set on Tremont's picturesque Lincoln Park, giving its sidewalk diners an unobstructed view of the village green. Freshly planted flower beds and herb gardens provide an olfactory side dish to Pete Joyce's flavorful bistro cuisine.
Eat: Duck confit
Drink: Definitive Pinot Noir
Sunset Grille on Whiskey Island is one of the few places in town that offers bona fide beachside dining. Hugging the shores of Lake Erie, this hedonistic summer getaway overlooks a 250-slip marina, a fading Coast Guard station, and the downtown skyline.
Eat: Fried perch sandwich
Drink: Ice-cold Corona
Sarava gives approximately 120 lucky diners great views of Shaker Square. Live music – not to mention passing trains – provide a sweet soundtrack to Sergio's kicky Brazilian-themed fare. Pull up a chair and share some globally inspired street food with pals.
Eat: Xim-xim
Drink: Copa Kiss
Lucky's Cafe prides itself on sourcing as many local products as possible. None are as local, however, as those grown in the raised-bed gardens that grace the casual outdoor dining area. Heather Haviland's very own community garden plot gives urban diners a mini-farm experience.
Eat: Breakfast burrito
Drink: Coffee and O.J.
Small, Spare, Sexy
Lolita, aka the original Lola, may not be the first (or second) place one thinks of to dine alfresco. But on balmy nights, the diminutive outdoor room fills up fast thanks to its secret-garden feel provided by a roof and wood-lattice fencing.
Eat: Anchovy pizza
Drink: Fattoria di Lucignano Chianti
Tartine Bistro in Rocky River has a façade of French doors that swings wide on warm evenings, uniting inside and out. Authentic in scale, the compact brick-paved courtyard fosters a heightened sense of energy due to elbow-to-elbow seating and affordable carafes of house wine.
Eat: Frisee salad
Drink: Picpoul de Pinet
Players on Madison waited a good 20 years to install a patio, but fans of this West Side mainstay are just happy they did. The sun-dappled space may not be huge, but it is tasteful in design and a pergola offers diners protection from the glaring sun.
Eat: Cavatelli rustica
Drink: Chianti riserva
Outdoor Bars!
L’Albatros inherited one of Cleveland's finest patios when it took over the old That Place on Bellflower space. It has since only gotten better. This leafy retreat accommodates cosmopolitan diners at standard tables, chic soft seating groupings, and a granite-topped bar.
Eat: Assortment of fine cheeses
Drink: Veuve Clicquot’s “Yellow Label”
Felice Urban Café is perhaps best known for its charming Craftsman-style home setting. But soon, the patio will be the talk of the town. When it's completed next month, an old wooden garage beneath a towering oak will be converted to an alfresco bar, giving new meaning to the phrase "neighborhood buzz."
Eat: Grilled skirt steak with chimichurri
Drink: Spanish red Rioja
Luxe Kitchen has built a Zen-like patio that serves as an oasis from the urban landscape that surrounds it. The multi-level patio with new plank decking features cypress trees in industrial planters and an outdoor bar with bold sailcloth canopies to shield the sun. Hit the doggie-friendly Sunday brunch.
Eat: Rustic egg torta
Drink: Bellini
Garage Bar, as one might expect, has a kick-ass patio that lacks pretention. A massive outdoor bar is protected by a tin roof, but there's also plenty of open-air space to enjoy the sky. Roll up on your Harley and enjoy the brand new outdoor kitchen.
Eat: Slow-smoked bbq ribs
Drink: PBR Tallboy
Metro Bar + Kitchen, it can be argued, possesses the primo Warehouse District perch for people watching. That perch will get a whole heck of a lot better when the swanky new indoor/outdoor patio is completed this month. An alfresco bar and new soft seating will wrap clear around two sides of the building, making this sidewalk patio the largest in the area.
Eat: Metro burger
Drink: Jameson’s-spiked milkshake
Tremont Tap House wisely installed a rolldown shutter that slides away in warm weather, connecting the exterior patio with the restaurant's interior bar. Brilliant! Better still is the selection – some three-dozen draft crafts, many available nowhere else but here.
Eat: Mussels frites
Drink: Belgian-style white beer
New and/or Improved
Momocho, thanks in no small part to a meandering mulberry tree, was forced to tear up its original patio and start fresh. The tree is history, replaced by graceful lilacs, new cedar fencing, industrial lighting, and crisp umbrellas. Gone, too, are the ankle-twisting pavers, which have been swapped with a smooth and seamless patch of fresh concrete.
Eat: Braised-goat taquitos
Drink: Blood orange margarita
Crop Bistro benefitted from last year's Warehouse District sidewalk-widening project, claiming four feet from W. 6th Street. That gives patio diners more room to spread out and enjoy chef Steve Schimoler's modern and seasonal American fare.
Eat: Chicken-fried chicken and waffles
Drink: Maker's Mark New Fashioned
Rosewood Grill gives south suburbanites a posh new place to plop outdoors. Hospitality Restaurants' new Hudson eatery sports a 50-seat patio with a 12-foot gas fire pit and stadium-style stone slab seating. Don't fret; there are bottom-friendly chairs as well.
Eat: Texas T-bone
Drink: Spellbound petite sirah
Clifton Martini and Wine Bar may not yet sound familiar, but the restaurant's sprawling front patio will certainly look familiar. Set in the former home of Velocity, Giovanna's, Mise, Jeso…, the new wine bar inherited one of the roomiest and most beloved verandas on the West Side.
Eat: Super lump crab cakes
Drink: Wolf Gewurztraminer
(Outdoor) Rooms with a View
Bistro on Lincoln Park, as the name suggests, is set on Tremont's picturesque Lincoln Park, giving its sidewalk diners an unobstructed view of the village green. Freshly planted flower beds and herb gardens provide an olfactory side dish to Pete Joyce's flavorful bistro cuisine.
Eat: Duck confit
Drink: Definitive Pinot Noir
Sunset Grille on Whiskey Island is one of the few places in town that offers bona fide beachside dining. Hugging the shores of Lake Erie, this hedonistic summer getaway overlooks a 250-slip marina, a fading Coast Guard station, and the downtown skyline.
Eat: Fried perch sandwich
Drink: Ice-cold Corona
Sarava gives approximately 120 lucky diners great views of Shaker Square. Live music – not to mention passing trains – provide a sweet soundtrack to Sergio's kicky Brazilian-themed fare. Pull up a chair and share some globally inspired street food with pals.
Eat: Xim-xim
Drink: Copa Kiss
Lucky's Cafe prides itself on sourcing as many local products as possible. None are as local, however, as those grown in the raised-bed gardens that grace the casual outdoor dining area. Heather Haviland's very own community garden plot gives urban diners a mini-farm experience.
Eat: Breakfast burrito
Drink: Coffee and O.J.
Small, Spare, Sexy
Lolita, aka the original Lola, may not be the first (or second) place one thinks of to dine alfresco. But on balmy nights, the diminutive outdoor room fills up fast thanks to its secret-garden feel provided by a roof and wood-lattice fencing.
Eat: Anchovy pizza
Drink: Fattoria di Lucignano Chianti
Tartine Bistro in Rocky River has a façade of French doors that swings wide on warm evenings, uniting inside and out. Authentic in scale, the compact brick-paved courtyard fosters a heightened sense of energy due to elbow-to-elbow seating and affordable carafes of house wine.
Eat: Frisee salad
Drink: Picpoul de Pinet
Players on Madison waited a good 20 years to install a patio, but fans of this West Side mainstay are just happy they did. The sun-dappled space may not be huge, but it is tasteful in design and a pergola offers diners protection from the glaring sun.
Eat: Cavatelli rustica
Drink: Chianti riserva
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