When veteran Cleveland restaurateur Hiroshi Tsuji was describing his upcoming project to me, I was sure something got lost in translation. Though he has lived and worked in the Cleveland area for over 40 years, Tsuji still possesses a strong Japanese accent. So when he said something about a pub serving barbecue and sushi, I pictured tiny slabs of rice supporting barbecue eel, smoked salmon, and perhaps a soy-glazed scallop tossed in for variety's sake. Not quite.
Hiroshi's Pub, which opened two months back in Beachwood, indeed specializes in both barbecue and sushi. The sushi is a no-brainer, as Tsuji has been slicing up some of Cleveland's finest fish for decades, first at Shujiro and still at Shuhei. The barbecue, he explained, also was a natural as the casual pub would cater to all diners, even those who shun sushi. But, as anybody who has visited the nascent eatery can attest, management hardly stopped there. As batty as fish and 'cue might sound, the menu goes on to include saloon-style starters, Latin ceviche, Italian panini, New York deli, American comfort foods and eclectic pasta dishes. The tri-fold, six-page menu has so many options, in fact, it turns ordering a meal into a Mensa challenge. And, as one might expect from such a long-winded menu, there are winners and losers. Sorting them out is the customer's job.
The first decision a diner need make, long before cracking a menu, is where to sit. Previously Sumo, a large Japanese steakhouse, Hiroshi's inherited a roomy footprint. Off to one side of the complex is a bright dining room. Opposite is a lengthy, multi-angled bar that seats 35. A well-appointed VIP room is available for groups who desire a little privacy, while a larger private dining room is on hand for bridal showers, rehearsal dinners or high school reunions. At the heart of the space, affixed to the central kitchen, is a decent-size sushi bar. And, last but not least, is a fresh new patio offering alfresco dining. All told, there's room for some 250 guests.
Apart from being too populated, the menu suffers from a maddening layout. In addition to the section titled "Pub Appetizers," there is one called "More Appetizers," and another, believe it or not, titled "Pub Sushi Appetizers." In total, there are 19 different menu categories brimming with well over 100 items. It's no wonder servers can be overheard preemptively apologizing to diners when delivering menus.
Surprisingly, though, many of those items are very good. Sushi here is a no-brainer, and the variety can make for some pretty creative snacking. Along with the usual roster of nigiri sushi, sashimi and hand rolls, Hiroshi has come up with some pretty killer futomaki, or large rolls. Crispy fried onions garnish the outside of the White Dragon ($12.95), a large nine-piece beast filled with shrimp tempura, albacore and wasabi mayo. Bridging the Far East with the Wild West is the Big Horn ($12.95), an unholy roll-up of smoked brisket, jalapenos, sushi rice and barbecue sauce.
Speaking of barbecue: Apart from the baby backs ($13.95/half), which we felt had an odd flavor and texture, the fare leaving the hefty wood smoker ain't half bad. The pulled pork sliders ($8.50/3), topped with coleslaw and served on buttery rolls, make a delicious starter. Beef brisket ($13.95) leaves the smoker agreeably supple, moist and flavorful, especially when gilded with horseradish. Thick-sliced smoked turkey breast, part of a dinner platter ($12.95) with potatoes, veggies and cornbread stuffing, was easily the tastiest thing on the plate. I'll be back to sample the "12 by 12" prime rib ($19.95), a 12-ounce portion of 12-hour smoked rib steak.
With a hefty handful of primo burger joints at their disposal, Cleveland diners hardly need another option. But you know what? Hiroshi's hamburgers ($7.95) are pretty awesome, especially for fans of thin diner-style burgers. Here, twin slim patties are griddle fried, layered with cheese, and slid into a toasted brioche bun. Toppings run the gamut from bacon, egg and cheese to house-smoked corned beef.
Duds pop up here and there, like the bland, saltless edamame ($4.50), the smoked-meat potstickers ($7.95) absent any trace of smoke, and the egregiously salty cornbread stuffing on the turkey platter. But there are pleasant surprises, too, like fresh salads (with or with meat), stuffed and toasted panini ($7.95), and all-beef, additive-free hotdogs ($4.95) with gourmet toppers.
The fact that Hiroshi's serves food at all, let alone in the quantity it does, is somewhat ironic. The original Hiroshi's Pub, a Cleveland Heights hotspot "back in the day," never bothered with much food, unless you count a shot with beer chaser food.
Hiroshi's Pub
3365 Richmond Rd., Beachwood
216.464.4665
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