Long before Eric Williams retooled Happy Dog into an uproarious tubesteak bierstube, savvy operators we're plotting to do the same with tacos. More than one local chef had been tracking available properties in the Detroit-Shoreway neighborhood, eager to stake his or her claim on "the next big thing." The unbridled success of Happy Dog only served to shift those pursuits into overdrive.
Credit Marlin Kaplan for winning the race. By partnering up with Rosita Kutkut, owner of the good-but-failing Latin eatery, La Boca, Kaplan managed to jump to the head of the line. A few tweaks to the turnkey property at W. 58th and Detroit were all it would take to get Roseangel up and running as Cleveland's first "modern taqueria."
Kaplan may have won this leg of the race, but he is far from winning the marathon. Since opening in early July, the restaurant has been pestered by issues relating to food, service and operations – all likely the result of haste. While improvements are happening on a daily basis, many of those embarrassing first impressions continue to linger in diners' minds. When all is said and done, the final judgment likely will be reserved for the food, which at present is still a bit of a mixed bag.
However short, the ramp-up time clearly was long enough for Kaplan to imprint his trademark flair. Always an attractive space, the restaurant was made infinitely more chic by the introduction of vividly hued crocodile-print wallpaper and striking black-and-white polka dot tables. A corner entrance places arriving guests squarely in the lounge, a lively sunroom dominated on one side by the bar. An adjoining room offers a more peaceful setting away from the boisterous chatter and whirring blenders. Out back, a pleasant enough patio is on hand for alfresco dining.
In these times of ultra-streamlined restaurant concepts – think hotdogs, grilled cheese, or burgers – it was only a matter of time until some shrewd local operator landed on tacos. In addition to being a universal comfort food, they also happen to be super trendy. Taco trucks, if you haven't heard, are hitting the streets in record numbers all across the nation. Roseangel's menu is streamlined alright, offering nothing but tacos save for the starters and sides. But while constrained, the menu also is unnecessarily broad, with nearly 20 varieties of tacos from which to choose. There are multiple versions of pork, chicken, beef, seafood and vegetarian fillings, complicating the decision-making process and almost guaranteeing duds.
Complicating matters worse was the fact that our server neglected to explain how it all works. Tacos can be ordered on soft or hard shells (a salient detail omitted from the menu). The housemade corn tortillas are amazing: slightly thick, corny and charred from the griddle. In contrast, the hard shells are dull and, on one visit, cool and stiff. At $4.25 a pop, the tacos are more than reasonably priced, especially considering the portion sizes. A three-taco platter ($11.75) sounded like a keen idea until we learned they all had to be the same. "Who wants three of anything?" my wife asked rhetorically, echoing my thoughts as usual.
Tacos range from delicious to disappointing. In the former category are the hangar steak with crispy onions; battered perch with avocado cream sauce; and grilled shrimp with roasted garlic. In the latter is gloppy braised pork with onions and pineapple. Landing somewhere in the middle are the braised beef tongue, the duck confit, and one containing avocado and soy sauce. Most are so overstuffed with slaw and fillings that they are impossible to eat as intended. On two occasions we ordered a side of rice and beans ($3.50). On one occasion it arrived at the table hot.
Salsas, sold separately for $2.50, could all use refinement. Most are too sweet, containing more fruit than flavor. Few boast any real spice. Others are too chunky, too tart, or too odd. The guacamole ($7), served with house chips, is a winning starter, but the duck nachos ($12.50) left us scratching our heads. A cold stack of chips, shredded duck, tomatoes, sour cream and un-melted cheese, the appetizer gives nachos a bad name. A zesty chorizo corndog ($9) arrived hot and crisp on one visit, cool and spongy the next.
On a more positive note: cocktails at Roseangel are lovely, particularly the sparkling white sangria ($6.50) and the margaritas ($7.50). The wine list is far too good for a taqueria, but the beer list makes perfect sense.
It's true that operating a restaurant is more marathon than sprint. But both races require a solid start for any hopes of success.
Roseangel
5800 Detroit Ave., Cleveland
216.961.5800
Credit Marlin Kaplan for winning the race. By partnering up with Rosita Kutkut, owner of the good-but-failing Latin eatery, La Boca, Kaplan managed to jump to the head of the line. A few tweaks to the turnkey property at W. 58th and Detroit were all it would take to get Roseangel up and running as Cleveland's first "modern taqueria."
Kaplan may have won this leg of the race, but he is far from winning the marathon. Since opening in early July, the restaurant has been pestered by issues relating to food, service and operations – all likely the result of haste. While improvements are happening on a daily basis, many of those embarrassing first impressions continue to linger in diners' minds. When all is said and done, the final judgment likely will be reserved for the food, which at present is still a bit of a mixed bag.
However short, the ramp-up time clearly was long enough for Kaplan to imprint his trademark flair. Always an attractive space, the restaurant was made infinitely more chic by the introduction of vividly hued crocodile-print wallpaper and striking black-and-white polka dot tables. A corner entrance places arriving guests squarely in the lounge, a lively sunroom dominated on one side by the bar. An adjoining room offers a more peaceful setting away from the boisterous chatter and whirring blenders. Out back, a pleasant enough patio is on hand for alfresco dining.
In these times of ultra-streamlined restaurant concepts – think hotdogs, grilled cheese, or burgers – it was only a matter of time until some shrewd local operator landed on tacos. In addition to being a universal comfort food, they also happen to be super trendy. Taco trucks, if you haven't heard, are hitting the streets in record numbers all across the nation. Roseangel's menu is streamlined alright, offering nothing but tacos save for the starters and sides. But while constrained, the menu also is unnecessarily broad, with nearly 20 varieties of tacos from which to choose. There are multiple versions of pork, chicken, beef, seafood and vegetarian fillings, complicating the decision-making process and almost guaranteeing duds.
Complicating matters worse was the fact that our server neglected to explain how it all works. Tacos can be ordered on soft or hard shells (a salient detail omitted from the menu). The housemade corn tortillas are amazing: slightly thick, corny and charred from the griddle. In contrast, the hard shells are dull and, on one visit, cool and stiff. At $4.25 a pop, the tacos are more than reasonably priced, especially considering the portion sizes. A three-taco platter ($11.75) sounded like a keen idea until we learned they all had to be the same. "Who wants three of anything?" my wife asked rhetorically, echoing my thoughts as usual.
Tacos range from delicious to disappointing. In the former category are the hangar steak with crispy onions; battered perch with avocado cream sauce; and grilled shrimp with roasted garlic. In the latter is gloppy braised pork with onions and pineapple. Landing somewhere in the middle are the braised beef tongue, the duck confit, and one containing avocado and soy sauce. Most are so overstuffed with slaw and fillings that they are impossible to eat as intended. On two occasions we ordered a side of rice and beans ($3.50). On one occasion it arrived at the table hot.
Salsas, sold separately for $2.50, could all use refinement. Most are too sweet, containing more fruit than flavor. Few boast any real spice. Others are too chunky, too tart, or too odd. The guacamole ($7), served with house chips, is a winning starter, but the duck nachos ($12.50) left us scratching our heads. A cold stack of chips, shredded duck, tomatoes, sour cream and un-melted cheese, the appetizer gives nachos a bad name. A zesty chorizo corndog ($9) arrived hot and crisp on one visit, cool and spongy the next.
On a more positive note: cocktails at Roseangel are lovely, particularly the sparkling white sangria ($6.50) and the margaritas ($7.50). The wine list is far too good for a taqueria, but the beer list makes perfect sense.
It's true that operating a restaurant is more marathon than sprint. But both races require a solid start for any hopes of success.
Roseangel
5800 Detroit Ave., Cleveland
216.961.5800
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