Opening Soon: The Chocolate Bar

Joe Novak was so impressed by his first visit to the Chocolate Bar, a chocolate-themed nightclub in Buffalo, that he cut short his retirement. The former club owner stopped in for drinks one night on his way through town and became so smitten with the place that he decided to open one of his own in Cleveland.

“Here was a club with women on every bar stool instead of guys with backwards-turned ball caps and wing sauce dripping off their chins,” recalls Novak. “It is the anti-sports bar. Not upscale, but definitely a few notches up.”

Novak thought seriously about the project for a few short months before calling up the owner to discuss a possible franchise. Since launching his Chocolate Bar concept in 2005, owner William Panzica has fielded multiple requests from entrepreneurs eager to franchise the business. But there was something about Cleveland that finally convinced him to give it a try.

“To be honest, I didn’t know that much about Cleveland until I went out there,” Panzica explains. “I can’t believe what’s going on there. It’s just the coolest city.”

Equally persuasive, Panzica adds, are the similarities between the original location and the one planned for C-Town. Novak’s restaurant will be located in the old Vivo space, which is attached to a hotel and located along a busy entertainment district, all elements that have helped the original to succeed. “It really will be an extension of what we have here in Buffalo,” Panzica says. “Right down to the cool, hip, urban space.”

As one might expect from a place called the Chocolate Bar, desserts are given high priority. A full 50 percent of the menu is devoted to sweets, with tarts, cakes and crepes leading the way. Big sellers include the brownie sundae, chocolate fondue for two, and the always-popular molten lava cake.

But the menu also includes soups, salads, sandwiches and entrees, some of which support the chocolate theme. A roasted pork tenderloin sports a spicy cocoa rub and mango salsa, and fresh pasta is tossed in a peppery white chocolate cream sauce. More mainstream items include a baked brie appetizer, a bacon, tomato and grilled cheese sandwich, and panko-crusted crab cakes. The Buffalo menu tops out at $13 for a filet.

“When I first looked at the menu I said to my wife, ‘Whoa, look at that. No burgers, no wings, no French fries, and almost nothing over $10,’” explains Novak. He quickly deduced that the unique food concept, one that features mostly desserts and affordable entrees, attracts a mature, largely female crowd. He also noticed that damn near every one of them was knocking back 10-dollar chocolate martinis.

Years ago, Novak operated the very successful Willowick club, The Landmark. Following an even more successful career in construction, the Northeast Ohio native retired to sunny Florida. “I was sitting comfortably in Florida and swore I’d never again get in the bar business,” he says. “But when I saw this concept and found this location, it was too good to pass up.”

After a strong six-year run, Vivo shuttered its doors in the summer of 2008, a victim of the endless Euclid Corridor construction, said owner Dan Krasny. The space is currently undergoing a makeover, which will slightly alter the look and feel of the restaurant. A carpeted raised platform will break up the wide-open dining room and feature custom railings and cozy banquettes. The exposed kitchen will be partially concealed, making way for additional seating at high tops. A mirror-flecked concrete bartop will sparkle with light.

Novak says that being Panzica’s first franchise has its benefits. “Because we’re his first, he is going to ensure that we succeed. I wouldn’t be working 16-hour days if I didn’t think this concept was a winner.”

Novak’s partner in the project is Dominic Fanelli. When it opens in late November, the Chocolate Bar will serve lunch and dinner.

Now You Know Your ABC Tavern

For years, ABC Tavern (1872 W. 25th St., 216.861.3857) has been the quiet neighbor on an otherwise boisterous block. While nearby hangs like Garage Bar, Bier Markt and Old Angle attracted droves of thirsty revelers, ABC went largely ignored. That low-pro existence may have been fine for wallflowers, but many barflies prefer a bit more energy. Energy is precisely what new management has instilled in the place. A tad brighter, a smidge cleaner, a few decibels louder, and a whole lot more crowded, the tavern no longer resembles Ed Hopper’s Nighthawks. Run by industry pros Randy Kelley and Linda Syrek (West Side Market Café, formerly Parkview), the tavern has spiffed up its food ops, offering a tight little menu of updated pub grub. Diners can nibble on house-fried potato chips and dip ($3.75), Pabst Blue Ribbon-steamed mussels ($7.75) or a basket of remarkably airy hush puppies ($5.75), served with spicy aioli. None at our table was brave enough to sample the “atomic dawg” ($5.25), a deep-fried jalapeno-stuffed bacon-wrapped hot dog. As a fan of thinner, diner-style burgers, I have to say I’m smitten by the ABC burger ($6.75). Pressed and griddle-fried, the burgers sport crisp edges, flavorful meat, and all appropriate toppings in place for easy consumption. Sandwiches come with a nest of super skinny fries. While much of the menu leans to the deep-fried, there are some reasonably healthy options for lighter appetites. There’s a tender pulled chicken sandwich, a ground lamb quesadilla, and a grilled fresh fish sandwich of the day. Decent wines, great beers, and creative cocktails are all on hand. A word about seating: There isn’t much. Apart from stools at the bar, there are precious few tables and chairs. Management promises more to come, but the layout doesn’t leave much room for seating.

Naya Bistro Debuts in Highland Heights

Naya Bistro (6323 Wilson Mills Rd., 440.446.1234) opened this week in Highland Heights. The well-appointed restaurant has a sleek, polished vibe despite being located in a freshly built strip center. Warm woods and textured walls combine with cozy banquets and striking fixtures for an unexpectedly upscale experience. Run by Elie Chamoun, the man behind several Georgio's Oven Fresh Pizza restaurants, Naya blends some healthful Middle Eastern tastes with a broader Mediterranean palate. Soups include a lemony lentil and Swiss chard ($5) as well as an aromatic roasted tomato ($5), topped with earthy root vegetables. We loved a starter of grilled polenta ($8), but wish the wine-braised mushroom sauce was a little more, well, saucy. Naya’s take on pizza earns points for both flavor and originality. Built atop a thick pita crust and grilled, the pies boast a chewy-charred texture that draws few complaints from the table. The mushroom pizza ($11) features ‘shrooms, garlic sauce, and thick slices of melted brie. Chicken kabobs ($15), sadly, arrive overcooked, though the jasmine rice saves the dish. Also on the lunch and dinner menu are entrée salads, sandwiches (including falafel), pasta, and a handful of seafood items.

Cleveland Restaurant Week

Cleveland Restaurant Week, an annual promotion organized by Cleveland Independents, has become a two-week-long tradition. Running from Sunday, November 1 through Saturday, November 14, over 50 independent restaurants will be offering special three-course, prix fixe dinners for $30 or less. Many also will be offering special lunch deals. The entire list of participating restaurants can be found online at clevelandindependents.com

Phnom Penh to Close Original Location

The original Phnom Penh location at 13124 Lorain Avenue will close on October 31, according to management. Not to worry: the owners are busy preparing a new location just eight miles down the road in North Olmsted, which should open in January. In the meantime, feel free to visit the popular Ohio City location at 1929 W. 25th St. (216.357.2951).

Liquid Planet: Fast Food, not Junk Food

Question: What’s fast, cheap, tasty and relatively healthy? Not much, and that’s a problem for the budget-minded diner who prefers to not subsist on burgers, tacos and deep-fried chicken parts.

When it launched its first shop near Lakewood about seven years back, Liquid Planet boasted a unique business model built around the notion that fast food needn’t be junk food. Now with three locations, the small local chain has carved a sweet little niche for itself in an otherwise crowded dining scene.

The latest outpost opened just last week in Cleveland Heights, adjacent to the bustling Cedar Hill Starbucks. (Crocker Park is the other location.) Arguably the most attractive of them all, the historic double storefront features massive arched windows, soaring ceilings, sleek industrial fixtures, and plenty of seating.
Few are the concepts that feel equally at home in environments as dissimilar as Crocker Park and Cleveland Heights. Popular with students, yoga moms, and on-the-go commuters, the restaurant’s multigenerational appeal is proof that there’s always a market for food that’s quick, satisfying, economical and wholesome. What’s more, the shops’ all-day, every-day hours of operation provide a generous window of opportunity for the earliest of risers and the latest of night owls.

Smoothies are considered by some as an ideal breakfast food. Others gulp them down for an afternoon pick-me-up in place of coffee. Both groups are well served by the selection available here. There are over 40 concoctions utilizing some combination of fruits, veggies, non-fat frozen yogurt, soy milk, and the occasional Oreo cookie. Toss in another dozen “boosts” and supplements and that figure increases exponentially. Recovering from a rager? Take a swig of the Hangover ($5.95), which combines fresh fruit and orange juice with gingko and ginseng, and feel the pain melt away.

Liquid Planet may have made a name for itself in the smoothie department, but the menu flies well beyond the orbit of its liquid assets. A brightly colored wall menu covers half the room, with sections devoted to soups, salads, pita sandwiches and rice bowls. My advice: grab a take-out menu, a seat, and decide in peace.

Nowhere is a restaurant so vulnerable as it is with its salads. Designed to be literally picked apart, salads are a wonderful judge of an eatery’s dedication to quality. Apart from a wayward mandarin orange slice or two, the ingredients that make their way into my bowls are unimpeachably fresh. In addition to an entry-level house salad ($4.95), there are numerous entrée versions featuring grilled chicken, tuna salad, and deli meats (all $6.95). If there is a complaint to be lodged, it is in regard to the flavor and consistency of some of the dressings.

After smoothies, the largest chunk of menu real estate is devoted to the “stuffed toasted pitas.” Various sandwich combos – there are two dozen of them – are tucked into a folded whole wheat pita and grilled in a hot press. Like pita panini, the toasty bundles feature crispy exteriors and warm, melty insides. A zesty cucumber dressing promotes the Greek ($6.49), a medley of grilled chicken, feta and onions, to the favorites column. So-so deli meat, however, prevents the turkey reuben ($6.49) from doing the same. Sandwiches include a small side of chips and salsa, chips and hummus, or apples and peanut butter.

Relatively new to the operation are the rice bowls. These hearty, all-in-one meals feature rice topped with meat, sauce and vegetables. The chicken chili Thai ($7.95) boasts some genuine spice, along with tender white meat chicken, broccoli and crunchy chow mein noodles. A very saucy chicken paprikash ($7.95) is far more tame, but no less satisfying.

Given the quality of the food, Liquid Planet manages to prepare orders in a remarkably brief amount of time (about five minutes for a full order). The well-staffed shops have enough hands on deck to accomplish multiple tasks at once, such as whipping up smoothies and toasting sandwiches. Though some items are prepared ahead of time and reheated to order, they don’t seem to suffer the same indignities found elsewhere. Meats are moist, sauces arrive hot, and rice is reasonably fluffy. Is it five-star cuisine? Heck no, but it’s not drive-thru drivel either.

Looking for friendly service? Staffers here all seem to be drinking the same Kool-Aid, eager to welcome a customer and perform their duties with a smile. At one, we were greeted by each employee. Same goes for the good-byes.

Folks in close proximity to a shop should grab a “preferred customer” card on their initial visit. After 10 punches of the card (one each for smoothies, salads, sandwiches and bowls), customers get $5 off the next purchase. Far out.

Strip, a Steak House, Setting Table for October Debut

At a time when other restaurateurs are opening burger bars and hot dog parlors, at least one entrepreneur is bucking the trend with a high-profile steakhouse. As the man behind Olde Avon Village, Ron Larson has worked hard to preserve some of Avon’s rustic flavor. His unique grouping of shops and restaurants consists of historic buildings that were spared from the wrecking ball. One of them, an 1840s farmhouse barn, now houses Henry's at the Barn (36840 Detroit Rd., 440.934.6636, henrysatthebarn.com). Another, an 1850s German Dutch barn rescued from Mt. Vernon, Ohio, will soon be home to Strip, a Steak House (36840 Detroit Rd., 440.934.9900, stripsteakhouse.com).

“I know there’s a lot of competition out there,” says Larson, who also operates the Tree House Gallery and Tea Room. “I’m trying to put something together that I think people will like and that will mix well with the other restaurants in town.”

Larson describes Strip as a “steakhouse with a flip.” In addition to the juicy USDA prime steaks and chops there will be updated comfort food classics. Larson is taking pains to differentiate his steakhouse from the competition. So, instead of the traditional chophouse sides, diners will be able to choose from gruyere mac and cheese, broccoli corn casserole, and pumpkin apple risotto. Other add-ons will include house-made flavored butters and steak sauces. Non-meat options will include horseradish-crusted grouper, smoked applewood chicken and vegetable strudel. Price points will run $8-10 for apps, $7 for two-person sides, and $22 to $34 entrees. The two-level restaurant is divided into a first-floor bar and dining room with open kitchen and a second-floor dining room. There is seating for about 100 guests inside and 60 outside. Larson is shooting for a décor that he calls “primitive elegance,” a lively blend of the old and new. “I want to smash diners’ preconceptions about eating in an old barn,” he says. When it opens later this month, Strip will serve dinner and late-night dessert.

World's Best Falafel - For Here

Cleveland’s favorite falafel sandwich, long available only in carry-out form at the West Side Market and in Strongsville, can now be enjoyed sitting down. Owner Sam Zayed is putting the finishing touches on Maha’s Café (3323 W. 25th St., 216.741.9810, mahascafe.com), a full-service restaurant located next to Metro Health. The modern 50-seat café features a full menu of Middle Eastern specialties, including fatoush, kibbie, shawarma and spinach pies. American salads, burgers and sandwiches are also on tap. Look for an opening any day.

Cleveland Scene "Best Of" Food Winners

Best New Restaurant: L'Albatros
11401 Bellflower Rd., 216.791.7880, albatrosbrasserie.com

“Opening this restaurant was an absolute no-brainer,” chef-owner Zachary Bruell explained just weeks before introducing the Best New Restaurant of 2009. He was referring, of course, to the tactic of bringing updated French bistro fare to the University Circle carriage house that for decades housed That Place on Bellflower. It appears he hit the proverbial nail on the head: From the moment the doors parted, the restaurant has been besieged by zealous guests – guests who know a good thing when they see, smell and taste it. There were many other noteworthy openings last year, but no restaurant shot out the starting gate so fully formed, so spotless in its execution, service and setting, as L'Albatros. For the first time in a long time, the historic space bubbles with wit, spirit and energy. An already delightful patio was elevated to star status. And the food – from the first schmear of pork and veal pate to the last gooey glop of stinky cheese – is so good it beckons diners back again and again like an illicit lover. Bravo, Bruell. Bravo.

Runner up: The Greenhouse Tavern
2038 E. Fourth St., 216.393.4302, thegreenhousetavern.com

Best Chef: Jonathon Sawyer
The Greenhouse Tavern
2038 E. Fourth St., 216.393.4302, thegreenhousetavern.com

It takes stones to do the kind of cooking Jonathon Sawyer does at The Greenhouse Tavern – and we’re not just talking about the Frenchy stuff. Most diners quickly settle into a routine at restaurants, gravitating toward a handful of favorite dishes and rarely venturing on. Those folks are screwed at Greenhouse. Here, the only constant is change. Consumed by an intense form of culinary AD/HD, Sawyer shuffles the menu more often than a Vegas blackjack dealer. (In stark contrast, L'Albatros is still operating on its original menu.) Much of this jiggering is done to make use of the season’s freshest and finest, of course. But the truth is, Sawyer is never satisfied to leave well enough alone. A consummate tinkerer, the chef is compelled to push himself, his food and his staff to ever-higher levels, even when doing so is a royal pain in the ass. In return, we adventurous diners are rewarded with some of Cleveland’s most satisfying and delicious food.

Best Restaurateur: Michael Symon
Lola, Lolita, Bar Symon

Beard, Bar Symon, B Spot – it’s been a big year for our celebrity hash slinger. In addition to snagging – finally! – the James Beard Award for Best Chef, Symon birthed his wildly enjoyable American brasserie, Bar Symon. Apparently on overdrive, the chef recently teamed up with the Cavs and Aramark to open two signature eateries inside Quicken Loans Arena. The fast-casual restaurants promise to add a dash of excitement to a normally drab culinary landscape. But wait, there’s more! Symon is on schedule to launch his latest venture, B Spot, before the year comes to a close. Located at Eton, the rock-fueled eatery will feature gourmet burgers, brats and beer. That’s not all, folks: Symon fans eager to bring the chef into their kitchens will have the opportunity to do so come early November, when his first cookbook, “Live to Cook,” is released for sale.

Best New Bakery: Blackbird Baking Co.
1391 Sloane Ave., 216.712.6599, blackbirdbaking.com

Nothing lifts a neighborhood like a great bakery, and thanks to Tom and Adria Clark, residents living near the Lakewood-Rocky River border have received the biggest lift of all. Originally from Lakewood, Tom spent the last decade working in Portland, Oregon’s bakery biz. He returned home and perfected his craft at the wonderful On The Rise. Seven months were spent remodeling a shabby building into a sleek metropolitan bakery. The open design gives customers unfettered views of the kitchen, including its flour-dusted work tables and massive ovens. Everything is made from scratch daily and displayed on baker’s racks. Bread fans will go nuts for Blackbird’s European-style baguettes, focaccia and ciabatta. Sweets fans will head straight for the pecan sticky buns, cherry scones, apricot croissants, and dreamy chocolate chip cookies.

Best New Beer List: Bar Symon
32858 Walker Rd., 440.933.5652, barsymon.com

The first thing guests see when they cross the threshold of Bar Symon is a picket fence of beer taps. The 40 or so handles, each festooned in its own brewery colors, march down the bar like a pixie parade of infinite glee. Michael Symon promised an American brasserie bursting at the seams with good beer and, glory be, he delivered. All told, there are about 100 labels, from the palest ale to the meatiest imperial stout. There is a strong American presence, with entries from Dogfish Head, Jolly Pumpkin, Left Hand, and Rogue. But there is an equally impressive showing of Belgian and Belgian-style ales. And talk about range! Big spenders can splurge on a $65 bottle of cask-fermented lambic, while penny pinchers can drain $1 pints of PBR.

Best Corned Beef Sandwich: Goodman’s Sandwich Inn
5164 Pearl Rd., 216.398.6885

In a town like Cleveland, where mile-high corned beef sandwiches are considered a birthright, loyalty to a particular provider can be fierce. Blessed with no shortage of quality candidates, local CB fans take pleasure in debating the finer points of fat and meat, salt and seed, height and weight. Pound for pound, the best sandwich going is the one served at Goodman’s Sandwich Inn. To pull off a sandwich built from thick, hand-sliced beef, as Goodman’s has been doing for eons, one must start with ultra-tender meat. The perfect mix of lean and well-marbled slices, these gut-busters are an absolute joy to eat.

Phattest Restaurant Promo: Melt Bar & Grilled Tattoo
14718 Detroit Ave., 216.226.3699, meltbarandgrilled.com

Tattooing the name of your sweetie is one thing, but permanently carving a sandwich shop logo into one’s flesh is another entirely. Lakewood’s Melt has been known to inspire a certain level of fanaticism. And while that devotion is wholly earned, an alarming new trend is sweeping across Browns town: Melt tattoos. It isn’t just a coincidence that the restaurant’s signature sandwich-and-crossbones crest is popping up in vivid hues on forearms and biceps; customers who do so will enjoy 25% off any purchase at Melt for life. You read that right – 25% off for life. Granted, those who regularly consume pierogi-stuffed sandwiches don’t have the longest life expectancy.

Best Old World Pizza: Crostatas
558 Bishop Rd., 440.449.7800, crostatas.com

Some will have you believe that pizza sans pepperoni is blasphemy. Maybe it is… in Omaha. But in Naples – and Highland Heights, Ohio – pizzas come topped with mozzarella di bufala, artichokes, maybe some nice prosciutto. You see, at Crostatas, the Neapolitan-style pies are prepared the old-fashioned way: dough is made fresh daily and allowed to rise slowly overnight; imported San Marzano tomatoes are hand crushed to make the sauce; authentic toppings are used sparingly so as to not detract from the glorious crust. But without the massive wood-burning oven, which blasts the pizza to “done” in 90 seconds flat, none of the above matters a whit. Assembled on site by Italian craftsmen, the handsome hearth soars to a blistering 900 degrees Fahrenheit and is the crucial ingredient in proper pie production.

Rockingest Foodie Fundraiser: Rock ‘n’ Roll BBQ Throwdown
Benefit for Cleveland Food Rocks

It seems that every year, some organization concocts another food-based fundraiser, where bighearted chefs are strong armed into donating their time, cash and resources in support of a worthy cause. Now, we’re certainly not knocking the causes, just the events, which too often are stuffy snooze-fests crammed with supercilious gourmands. And then there’s the food, wee little morsels that couldn’t sate a gnome let alone a full-grown human. Thank the Good Lord then for the Rock ‘n’ Roll BBQ Throwdown, a brandy new bash that benefits Cleveland Food Rocks and the indie restaurants of Northeast Ohio. Chefs from dozens of the area’s most popular restaurants dished up gallons of righteous barbecue-themed grub. When they weren’t feeding guests, the chefs rocked the house from the small stage. And who the hell can forget Bootsy Collins?! Here’s hoping that the riotous event returns for an encore in 2010.

Best New Brew: Indigo Imp
3615 Superior Ave., 216.881.0650, indigoimpbrewery.com

Everybody loves a great underdog story, those inspirational yarns where the little guy beats all odds to find success in a harsh and indifferent world. Matt Chappel is that guy. In a country where craft beer consumption still tops out at just 4% of the market share, Chappel launched a garage brewery poised for greatness. Working on a shoestring budget, the former CAD operator designed and built his small brewery by hand, constructing his brew kettles out of generic stainless tanks. Even more unconventional, the brewer opted for an anachronistic open-fermentation system that blesses each brew with its unmistakable wild-yeast flavor. The naturally carbonated, unfiltered and unpasteurized suds come in three styles: Blonde Bombshell, Jester and Winter Solstice, a seasonal. Find it at bars and markets area wide.

Plenty of Karma at Darna

You don’t have to know a single thing about Moroccan cuisine to fall for Darna. From the exceedingly comfortable space to the alluring – and delicious – food, the operation seems to be designed around exceeding diners’ expectations.

Granted, those expectations are probably nil considering that we Clevelanders have had very limited exposure to Moroccan cooking. Our most recent experience with the cuisine came courtesy of Moha Orchid, a Moroccan-born chef who operated the delightful, yet maddeningly unpredictable, Venezia in Lakewood. Even there, the occasional exotic dish served merely as a garnish for the chef’s stellar Italian cooking.

Here, too, the foreign is wisely tweaked and tempered for Midwestern palates. The result is an intriguing anthology of plates that offer glimpses into another land without entirely abandoning the diner in an unfamiliar place. By judiciously employing uncommon techniques, ingredients and spice mixtures, Darna adeptly straddles the line between interesting and unnerving.

A diner’s first revelation occurs immediately after crossing the threshold. The Shaker Square space that for so long was home to Luchita’s Mexican Restaurant has been reworked into a warmly decorated representation of a Marrakesh abode. Rich cayenne-colored walls are softly illuminated by candlelight, while gauzy linens break up the space into cozy nooks. Mirrors, Oriental rugs, and tasteful North African accessories complete the design. A soft seating area near the front of the restaurant serves as an American substitute for the customary floor seating.

That lounge area, assembled around a gas-log fireplace, is an ideal roost for friends to meet up over a glass of wine and a plate of hummus ($8). Darna may serve one of the best renditions in town, no doubt owing to the warm, airy, melt-in-your-mouth pita wedges that accompany it. Scattered atop the smooth chick pea puree are olives, French feta, preserved lemon and olive oil, making each bite different from the last.

Preserved lemon, made by pickling the citrus whole or in part, is the secret ingredient to many Moroccan dishes. The result is an intensely lemony, but not sour, flavor that offers an unexpected pick-me-up to salads, soups and stews. It livens up a thick and satisfying split pea soup ($7), pairing beautifully with the starter’s faint fennel notes. And it brightens an already vivid Moroccan salad ($8), a veritable rainbow of diced tomatoes, cucumbers, bell peppers and feta.

A whisper of mysterious spice – cinnamon and cumin, perhaps? – imbues a trio of crisp Moroccan “cigars” ($9) with an earthy, homey essence. Resembling Asian spring rolls, these slender and addictive treats are stuffed with seasoned ground beef and served with greens and tahini dipping sauce. Bastilla is an elaborate and celebratory meat pie that customarily blends the sweet and savory. Darna shrinks the dish down to appetizer size ($9) while retaining the classic elements. Tender duck confit is bundled inside a crisp phyllo satchel that is dusted with cinnamon, powdered sugar and almonds.

Darna’s traditional couscous entrée ($19) has everything going for it but the meat. We sidestep the dry, tough white meat chicken in favor of the flavorful vegetable stew and sauce-washed couscous. There are lamb ($23) and vegetarian ($16) varieties of couscous as well. Quail lovers will go nuts over the version served here ($25), which features a pair of gorgeous chestnut-colored birds propped atop a veggie ragout. The partially boned-out game is stuffed with golden raisins and carrots and boasts still-moist breast meat. A honey glaze bronzes the skin while adding a beguiling sweetness, a nice counter to the fiery harrisa sauce that garnishes the plate.

Cleveland’s meat-and-potato crowd is served well by Darna’s grilled lamb chops ($25). Dusted with a flattering spice mixture and plopped onto a bed of smooth mashed potatoes, the entree acts as a pleasing halfway point between foreign and familiar. I can’t say the same for the grilled jumbo prawns ($22), a particularly underwhelming dish. Unless “jumbo” means something else in Arabic, the restaurant is being a tad hyperbolic. The petite shrimp are seasoned, grilled and presented on fluffy rice pilaf.

As with the starters and mains, Darna’s desserts strike a tasteful balance between here and there. Who doesn’t appreciate a warm, sweet and gooey bread pudding? This rendition ($7) benefits from ripe peaches and crunchy almonds. In a twist on the Moroccan cigar appetizer, another dessert ($8) swaps the meat filling for cream cheese, gilding the dish with a drizzle of wildflower honey.

With the addition of Darna, which opened last winter, Shaker Square may just be the most diverse restaurant row in Ohio. By my recollection, the grouping includes Japanese, Hungarian, Italian, American, Brazilian, and now Moroccan. Culinary exploration has never been so easy.

Darna Moroccan Cuisine
13114 Shaker Sq., Cleveland
216.862.2910

Future's Bright for Souper Market

Souper Market owner Matthew Moore realized that in order to expand the company something had to change. Since opening his flagship soup shop in Ohio City (2528 Lorain Ave., 216.737.SOUP, thesoupermarket.com) almost seven years ago, business in bisques has been brisk. Moore added a second location in Lakewood (14809 Detroit Ave., 216.712.7292) in 2007 while earning shelf space at area Heinen’s for his stellar stocks. But producing soup at each location, not to mention packaging stocks for retail sales, became unmanageable. “I decided that the only way to expand Souper Market while ensuring quality was to centralize production,” Moore explained. To that end, Moore has built a dream kitchen that puts him in charge of every pot. Located inside a vegetable processing facility on Carnegie, the kitchen frees up space at the two existing stores with the removal of equipment. The Ohio City location is already undergoing a major overhaul that will result in a brighter, sharper and bigger room. “It will still be standing room only,” says Moore. “But there will be more of it.” Perhaps more significant, the new facility will make possible the opening of additional Souper Markets, which Moore will sell as franchises. The first, to be located in PlayhouseSquare or Cleveland Heights, perhaps, has already been sold. Also in the works is a retail location at the Carnegie facility, to be open by late October.

Pop the Cork: Bistro du Beaujolais is Reopening

It’s been 10 months since fire ravaged the 1830s Olmsted Falls farmhouse that is home to Bistro du Beaujolais (8134 Columbia Rd., 440.235.8883). If all goes as planned, the restaurant will reopen on October 20. “We can’t wait,” says owner Georges D' Arras. “We’re ready to get back to work.” D' Arras wants customers to know that gift certificates purchased before the closure will be accepted, even if expired.

Eric Williams (Momocho) Snags Happy Dog

From Eric:

well its official / last night i signed the papers to finalize the purchase
of the happy dog on west 58 + detroit / im very excited to be a part of the
new + energized gordan square district / i had an opportunity to partner up
with my friends rini mcnulty + sean kilbane (who is a great foh guy +
musician) / the plan is to clean + do a small "rearrangment" of the space
but keeping that old bar-diner-hall feel / hope to be open by 10/17 / the
focus will be on creating a cool corner bar that continues to have live
music from both local + national musicians / as for the food ... we will be
serving only 2 items / an all beef chicago style hot dog + fresh cut fries /
the catch is we will offer 50 plus home made toppings ranging from unique
ketchups + mustards, pickled vegetables, bleu cheese coleslaw, chorizo
chili, to some cool stuff like house made korean kim chee, cola + soy
braised baby bok choy, or vodka saurkraut / the combinations are endless /
as for the name ... possible plans for a new name that not only captures the
venue but also celebrates the history of the neighborhood / thanx for all
your continued support + we look forward to seeing you soon.