Vento Takes Advantage of Park Setting

It is pretty tough to top the setting that envelops Vento (28611 Lake Rd., 440.835.4530, ventotrattoria.com), a new Italian eatery in Bay Village. Located on the grounds of the Metroparks’ Huntington Reservation, the idyllic spot is remarkably serene, boasting lush landscapes and distant lake views. Formerly the Coffee Shop, the old wood-sided building has been freshened up and its kitchen expanded. Guests can sit in the wee dining room or out on the gravel-lined patio. Operated by Di DeRubba, with help from partner and husband John McDonnell (Tartine), the casual Italian bistro offers a concise menu with only a handful of appetizers, salads and entrees. Starters include a lovely crab cake ($8), bursting at the seams with sweet seafood. Likewise, a mild pepper ($8) is stuffed to the gills with zesty sausage meat. There is a bright spinach salad ($7), augmented with goat cheese, orange, and pistachio nuts. For the main event, a pristine flank of halibut ($16) is topped with tomato puree and sided with red pepper polenta. A moist but pale skin-on chicken breast ($15) is served on mashed potatoes. At these prices, a simple bread plate would be a reasonable gesture, but none is in sight. We’ll chalk up service issues to opening-month snags, but no table should have to ask to hear the specials and receive water. For now there is only a beer list, but diners are encouraged to bring their own bottle of wine (and pay the $10 corkage fee).

Beach Club Bistro Adds a Grill

It’s been seven years since owners Greg and Michael Jurcisin opened Beach Club Bistro (21939 Lakeshore Blvd., 216.731.7499, bcbistro.com) in Euclid. Blame it on the Seven Year Itch, but the duo felt the time was right to expand. “It came down to finding the right place,” Greg explained. “We believe we’ve done that.” The Beach Club Grill (9853 Johnnycake Ridge Rd., 440.350.0088) opened last month in Concord, taking over the former home of Epiq Bistro. The addition was a natural one, says management, as much of the original shop’s fan base hails from the eastern ‘burbs. The roomy restaurant can seat about 180 between the bar, lounge, dining room and patio. Perhaps the best news for followers is that former Beach Club Bistro chef David Hopkins will be heading up the kitchen at the Grill. Diners can look forward to many of the same appetizers, pizzas and pastas, but also more high-end entrees like steaks and chops.

Bar Symon: Raising the Bar

To find the Michael Symon restaurant with the liveliest atmosphere, diners need to sidestep downtown and Tremont and head west to Avon Lake. Vastly different from Lola and Lolita in spirit, mood and food, Bar Symon is a gleefully informal tavern with sparkle to spare. And thanks to the man behind the moniker, guests can count on quality fare.

For proof that residents of the far-west side were pining for just such a place, consider the line that begins taking shape long before the doors swing open. Like shoppers jockeying for position at a Black Friday sale, eager diners arrive early to secure a prime spot at the bar or in the dining room.

Billed as an American brasserie, Bar Symon merges the traditional notions of bar and grill into one big, boisterous beer hall. Guests who cross the threshold immediately find themselves near the bar, a mile-long procession of stools that fill up fast. The lounge’s energy extends to the rear of the room now that the old Swingos Grand Tavern space has been opened up from end to end. School house pendant lights, subway-tile walls, bare-wood tabletops and concrete floors reinforce the saloon-style design. Rock ‘n’ roll plays over the sound system.

The beauty of Bar Symon lies in the range of its culinary options. A single guy can belly up to the bar for a burger, beer and sports on the tellie (though one screen is permanently tuned to the Food Network). A couple can canoodle over a bottle of wine and platter of oysters. Serious eaters can settle in for a full meal of appetizers, entrees and dessert.

Symon is adept at rewarding both the conservative and adventurous diner. The former secures updated and tightly executed American comfort foods, while the latter scores hardcore foodie fare with big returns. We could not have been happier with an appetizer of roasted bone marrow ($8), a dish that admittedly sounds less than appealing. Split lengthwise for easy scooping, the long bones cradle a lush and beefy pudding that is spread on toasts and topped with herbs and pickled onion. Timid guests can ignore the fibula in favor of addictive chicken wings ($7). Slow-braised for juiciness, then flash-fried for crispness, the double-cooked wings arrive bearing a mahogany-colored crust.

Much of the menu is built around a wood-fired grill, which tastefully chars everything from burgers and steak to fish and meatloaf. Nightly specials come from a rotating spit mounted above the grill. Not surprisingly, there is no shortage of pork. Heading up the kitchen is Matthew Harlan, the former chef of Lolita.

No table should pass up an order of the grilled fresh sausages. Available individually ($6) or as part of the Big Board ($17 for 3), boldly flavored varieties like lamb with mint, pork and fennel, and veal bratwurst are presented with toasted bread, pickled veggies and a trio of mustards (including Stadium). Everybody, it seems, is doing sliders. Nobody is doing them like this. Luscious shreds of duck confit ($6) are tucked into a wee soft bun with cilantro, carrot and spicy mayo. These gems should be sold by the bucket.

Bar Symon is by far the chef’s most value-oriented restaurant. Just $15 lands a diner a plate of Barberton-style fried chicken, consisting of a full half a bird. The crunchy, moist pieces are gilded with an intoxicating truffle honey. For $12, a guest can dig into a Bible-sized flank of grilled meatloaf, the flavorful mixture more zesty than tame. Want simply prepared fish? Go with the walleye or trout ($17 each). Entrees also include a side dish, served up in a petite pot or pan. Choices range from cheesy soft polenta to out-of-this-world fried Brussels sprouts. As one buddy put it, “Nobody will be complaining about small portions here.”

Bar Symon’s beer list is as impressive as Lola’s wine list. Nearly 200 varieties are available, with 40 of those delivered up fresh on tap. Beef aficionados can sip on zippy pilsners, hoppy IPAs, sour Lambics, or dark and chewy stouts. Want a PBR? It’ll only cost you a buck. Symon doesn’t just serve up the suds, he delivers the ultimate snacks. Instead of stale pretzels, barflies can nibble on smoked almonds ($3), oregano-dusted popcorn ($3), or melt-in-your-mouth pork rinds ($4).

Bar Symon may be lively early on, but as nightfall descends the crowds all but vanish. For relatively easy access, consider pushing your arrival later rather than earlier. Granted, you may miss out on the nightly special (gone by 8 p.m. most nights), but you shouldn’t have to wait long for a table.

Bar Symon

32353 Walker Rd., Avon Lake

440.933.5652

Blackbird Baking in the Dead of Night

Nothing lifts a neighborhood like a great bakery. Thanks to Tom and Adria Clark, residents living near the Lakewood-Rocky River border have a wonderful source for European-style artisan breads. Opening in early July, Blackbird Baking Company (1391 Sloane Ave., 216.712.6599) is quickly developing a loyal following.

Originally from Lakewood, Tom spent the last decade working in the bakery biz in Portland, Oregon. In 2007, he and his wife decided to relocate to the Cleveland area to open a bakery of their own. To hone his skills, Tom worked at the wonderful East Side bakeshop, On The Rise (3471 Fairmount Blvd., 216.320.9923). When the perfect location became available – coincidentally near the Clark’s home – the couple seized upon it. Seven months was spent remodeling the building inside and out, transforming a shabby building into a sleek metropolitan bakery. The open design gives customers unfettered views of the kitchen, including its flour-dusted work tables and massive ovens. Everything is made from scratch daily and displayed on counters and baker’s racks. Bread fans will crow about Blackbird’s baguettes, batards, focaccia and ciabatta. Sweets fans will head straight for the pecan sticky buns, cherry scones, apricot croissants, and dreamy chocolate chip cookies. Beverages, including Crooked River brand coffee, are also available. Shoppers can get their goods to go or enjoy them in the dining room or out on the patio. Plans are in the works to add more substantial fare to the menu. Blackbird is open every day but Monday.

Will Verve Hit a Nerve?

If all goes as planned, the old Juniper Grille will reopen as Verve (1332 Carnegie Ave.) in just over two weeks, says chef and new owner Brian Okin. For the last three and a half years, Okin ran Benvenuti Ristorante in Broadview Hts. He sold that business to focus on his new venture. His chef resume stretches back 20 years and touches many of the area’s most popular spots. “I’m not going to say I’m the best restaurateur in the city,” Okin told me, “but I’ve been doing this a long time and I know how to run a business.”

Unlike Juniper Grille, which focused on breakfast and lunch, Verve will be a lunch and dinner spot. The chef says he hasn’t completely ruled out breakfast, especially considering the business his predecessor did in the space, but admitted it’s not his forte. What he does plan to do is offer creative comfort food. “I want to reinvent the dishes we grew up with,” he explained. “I want to take what we already know and love and elevate it to another level.” Okin promises the menu will go well past gourmet mac and cheese, and will include modern twists on pigs in a blanket, fish and chips, and veal stroganoff.

Plans are to open for lunch the first week of September followed by dinner service when the beer and wine license transfers. The 80-seat (plus private dining room) space is receiving some cosmetic updates. Okin admits that it might take some work to get folks to the area for dinner, but offering free parking and being close to big-city attractions should help.

Open Wide and Say... La Boca

The La Boca barrio of Buenos Aires is a colorful arts district surrounded by a blue-collar neighborhood. How fitting, then, that the newest restaurant to join the burgeoning Gordon Square District, an artsy borough tucked into the Detroit-Shoreway neighborhood, is called La Boca.

Situated a stone’s throw from Cleveland Public Theatre and the soon-to-open Capitol Theatre, La Boca aims to add a dash of Latin spice into the near-west dining scene. As a native of Buenos Aires, first-time restaurateur Rosita Kutkut knows a few things about the flavors and spices of Latin America. To execute her plan, Kutkut enlisted veteran chef Adam Schmith, most recently of Melange.

Before the grand opening, the chef described the food as “contemporary comfort cuisine with a Latin inspiration.” I looked forward to sampling the “spices of Argentina, Venezuela and Chile” twisted into a variety of modern dishes, as he explained it. With a couple visits under my belt, I’ve discovered numerous items that warrant return trips. What hasn’t always been easy to find is the much-touted Spanish flair.

It would be a challenge to find a better steak sandwich ($9.50) than the one served here. Thick, juicy and tender chunks of marinated beef are tossed with sautéed mushrooms and onions, blanketed in melted havarti, and packed into a rosemary-studded bun. All this sandwich lacks is the vinegary kick of the promised chimichurri sauce. And the accompanying fried yuca chips? They have been replaced by good, but mainstream, french fries.

Better examples of La Boca’s trademark Latin-inspired comfort food can be found in the appealing starter section. Three fat and flaky empanadas ($6) are filled with a contemporary blend of chicken, spinach and brie. A smoky tomato salsa adds an additional layer of depth and flavor. Corn, manchego and roasted tomato sauce add a tasty twist to a thin-crusted pizza ($9) with rock shrimp. Another pie showcases chorizo, mushrooms and Monterey jack ($8). The fried wonton app ($8) is one of the rare misses among the starters. These crunchy pillows fry up puffy but empty, with only a scant trace of the shrimp and cheese filling.

We devour La Boca’s rich and earthy black bean soup ($5), a version that happily lacks any inventive twists. On the flip side, it’s difficult to nail down the heritage of the shredded pork egg rolls ($6). Don’t get me wrong – we praised these deep-fried, pork-filled beauties as the highlight of one meal. We just couldn’t find the connection. Same goes for a plate of addictive calamari ($9), so light and crisp we inhale it like popcorn. The ginger, lime and chili accents, while perfectly conceived, feel more Asian than Latin.

Eventually, we stop scrutinizing every dish’s pedigree and simply enjoy them for what they are. An expertly grilled and sliced flank steak ($15) is topped with peppers and onions and sided by fluffy herbed rice. Juicy white meat chicken ($13) is carved thin and sauced with a tropical mango glaze. The poultry is paired with a well-seasoned quinoa and orzo salad.

There’s a bit too much sweet for my taste going on in the scampi entrée ($16.50). Three large prosciutto-wrapped shrimp are seated in a syrupy fennel sauce. Next door, candy-sweet coconut tarts up a slightly gummy risotto.

La Boca, which is Spanish for “the mouth,” starts diners off with a tantalizing way to stuff theirs. Presented alongside a basket of mixed breads is a trio of house-made toppers. Black bean, sun-dried tomato, and honeyed butter spreads allow diners to mix and match flavors and spices.

Like the food menu, the wine list borrows from multiple locales. Diners can compare chardonnays made in California, Australia and Argentina. There is a Chilean pinot noir, Italian prosecco and French Pouilly-Fuissé. But for my money, a pitcher ($20) of the refreshing red or white sangria may be the best deal in the house.

Folks who haven’t visited the site since its Snicker’s days – or, perhaps, Lou & Eddy’s or Four Seasons – will be pleasantly surprised. The rooms have been cleansed of their dark and garish trappings, with new paint and wood floors throughout. Wider openings were installed between the barroom and adjoining dining rooms, better connecting the public spaces. Updated landscaping has breathed fresh life into the 60-seat patio.

There may be no better way to inject some Latin spice into the ‘hood than through dance. Owner Kutkut has launched weekly salsa nights and bi-weekly tango nights on Saturdays and Sundays, respectively. Interested parties can show up for the lesson portion of the night or simply stroll in for drinks, dinner and dancing on the gleaming hardwood floors.


La Boca
5800 Detroit Ave., Cleveland
216.961.5800

Future Looks Bright for ABC (the) Tavern

Fans of the West Side Market Café (1979 W. 25th St., 216.579.6800) have Randy Kelley and Linda Syrek to thank for its remarkable turnaround. Since taking over the restaurant three and a half years ago, their team has grown from four employees to nearly 20, and business has never been better. Soon, the duo will attempt to do for ABC Tavern (1872 W. 25th St., 216.861.3857) what it has accomplished for the café. Around Labor Day weekend, Kelley and Syrek will take over operations at this timeless but long-overlooked watering hole.

“Ohio City doesn’t have a true neighborhood bar anymore,” laments Kelley. He cites the loss of Ohio City Tavern and the original Fulton Bar and Grill. He enjoys Old Angle, Bier Markt and Market Avenue Wine Bar as much as the next guy, but he says they are different from what he has planned for ABC. In addition to the booze, the tavern will serve food late into the night. “I don’t want to do the typical pub grub thing,” he says. “Me and my chefs [Matthew Pell and Tim Duchnowski] are working on a short, tight bar menu with some twists on it.”

A few cosmetic alterations are planned for the bar, but don’t expect sweeping changes. “The bar has everything right there – except the people,” notes Kelley. More shocking, perhaps, is the news that after nearly a decade of engagement, Kelley and Syrek finally will be tying the knot later this month.

Chef Shift at Umami

Chef Michael Longo is no longer involved with Umami Asian Kitchen (42 N. Main St., 440.247.8600) in Chagrin Falls. “He delivered a phenomenal vision and product while he was here,” says owner Jonathan Westrich. Opened in January, the 30-seat contemporary Asian bistro has been impressing diners with its sophisticated take on seafood. Taking over for Longo in the kitchen will be Matthew Anderson, recently executive chef of Sapore (8623 Mayfield Rd., 440.729.1110) and instructor at Loretta Paganini School of Cooking. “The product may change with Anderson,” say Westrich. “Umami means delicious; the food doesn’t have to be strictly Asian.”

Greenhouse, Cleveland Score Big

Bon Appetit magazine included Cleveland’s own Greenhouse Tavern (2038 E. Fourth St., 216.393.4302) among its list of "Top 10 Best New Restaurants in America.” Their recommended dish to try: potato-crusted goat cheese tarts with heirloom tomato salad. Look for the issue to hit newsstands later this month. Congrats to Sawyer and Co.