Tuscany, We Hardly Know Ya

You can’t spell quality without Quagliata. More than hokey maxim, this statement holds up as a concise and accurate synopsis of the Cleveland dining scene. Since opening, in 1976, his flagship Ristorante Giovanni's, Carl Quagliata has established himself as the maven of good taste. Decade in and decade out, diners could be confident that meals enjoyed at a Quagliata restaurant would be money well spent.

The prescient restaurateur followed up Giovanni’s with Piccolo Mondo, a trend-setting bistro that ignited the Warehouse District while unleashing a young chef by the name of Michael Symon. Other delicious successes include Café Toscano and Casa Dolce, an East Side bakery he no longer owns. Quagliata also displayed savvy foresight when he opened Tuscany at Eton, an eatery that proved casual could go hand-in-hand with quality.

Now, after a five-year hiatus, Quagliata has resurrected his pined-for Tuscany. Opened in late May, the eatery has taken up residence in the Hamptons, a dated apartment complex located near Beachwood Place Mall. It doesn’t take long for a diner to realize that this version shares little in common with its predecessor, not only in terms of setting, but also design, concept and, regrettably, quality.

Quagliata’s original paired the hustle and bustle of a gourmet deli with the casual comfort of a laid-back trattoria. For on-the-go folks, there were glass-fronted display coolers overflowing with delectable prepared foods. Nearby shelving sagged beneath the weight of fresh-baked bread, imported pasta, canned tomatoes and fine olive oils. Those with neither time restraints nor microwaves eagerly plopped down at one of the few tables for spot-on Italian fare sans the candles and tablecloth.

The revival is so unlike its predecessor that calling it Tuscany borders on the libelous. For starters, the deli is ancient history. A lone display cooler is tucked near the cash register, but it rarely contains much of anything, let along prepared foods. Guests are certainly welcome to order take-out off the menu, but that approach essentially swaps leftovers for properly prepared heat-and-eat fare.

Granted, the menu does share an ancestral bond with its forebear, but the preparations thus far have proved them distant cousins rather than identical twins. Pastas, always bowls of beauty at Eton, tend to be cooked past al dente and sauced with too heavy a hand. In the capellini al finocchio ($13.50), squishy angel hair is smothered in a pleasant-enough tomato cream sauce. But spoiling the dish, literally and figuratively, are fishy, rubbery rock shrimp. We have decidedly better luck with the vegetable lasagna ($9.25), a meat-free stack of pasta, grilled squash, tomato sauce and cheese.

Apart from the powdery surplus of flour on the underside of the crust, the pizza bianco ($8.50) is everything one might expect of a white pizza. A thick layer of cheese crowns a thin, faintly crisp crust. A healthy dose of garlic and black pepper add some welcome spice.

If the word panini conjures images of toasted-and-pressed bundles of meat and cheese, banish the thought. Here the term is used in its more literal meaning, denoting sandwiches built on a small roll. One features caper-studded tuna salad ($8.25), fresh mozzarella, lettuce and tomato on a ciabatta bun. Others star rotisserie-roasted chicken, house-made meatballs, and roasted veggies.

The blame for the issues we encounter over two visits can be shared equally among the kitchen, the servers and the management. It is a flawed recipe that results in calamari ($9.50) fried in a batter so thick it’s impossible to differentiate a tentacle from a tube. The meat steams inside the gooey fritters rather than fries. But our server, who apologizes for the dish after noticing it is left virtually untouched, deserves fault for not removing it from our tab. Had the chef blotted away the oil slick that clings to a breaded veal cutlet ($14.95), the dish would have been substantially more enjoyable (though it still would lack the promised roasted tomato sauce).

Mr. Quagliata likely would have rolled some heads had he witnessed the amount of time it takes a staffer to tidy a child’s mess. Scattered beneath a deserted table near the front door, the pasta explosion greets us upon arrival and bids us arrivederci on departure – an hour later.

All of the above is a shame because despite the unfashionable address, Tuscany is a sharp little bistro. The all-day menu offers a wealth of reasonably priced options for diners with appetites large and small, and seating options range from stools at a sleek bar to tables in the sun-soaked atrium.

Tuscany
27040 Cedar Rd., Beachwood (in the Hamptons)
216/591-1760

Bac Asian Restaurant to Open in Tremont

Bac Nguyen comes from a long line of enthusiastic Vietnamese cooks. His grandmother is the “Minh” in Minh Anh, a restaurant she founded 24 years ago. (She is no longer involved.) His mother operated the popular Chinese Village, a casual Asian eatery that survived in Lakewood for 14 years. Now it’s Bac’s turn. The Case grad is putting the finishing touches on Bac, a contemporary pan-Asian restaurant that will open in the former Tremont home of La Tortilla Feliz. “Neither me nor my mother are trained cooks,” explains Nguyen. “It is just something we naturally enjoy doing.” The menu will feature popular dishes from various Asian cuisines; most will be prepared in the traditional way, but others will be made fresh by modern twists. “My intention is to keep the food familiar and accessible at first and down the road introduce some more unique fusion dishes.” Diners can expect edamame, spring rolls, crepes, shredded papaya salad, pad Thai, pho, rice vermicelli and braised Korean short rib. Look for a totally renovated space, with new façade, bar and lounge area, expanded patio and updated dining room. Nguyen, a practiced DJ, hopes to create a “casual cool vibe” that lingers into the night. “I want the restaurant to be nice enough to bring a date, but affordable enough so that people can come regularly.” Look for an October opening.

Juniper Grille: Gone in 60 Seconds

It was a sad surprise for many to learn that Juniper Grille (1332 Carnegie Ave.), the seven-year-old breakfast and lunch spot near Progressive Field, closed abruptly earlier this month. “My wife and I looked at the lease and I decided we wanted to do something else somewhere else,” explains owner Tom Szoradi. Fans of Szoradi’s style, which relies on quality ingredients and classic technique to create approachable, affordable fare, should not have to hold their breaths too long. Once the team settles on a spot – they are looking in the nearby suburbs surrounding the city – they will move forward with plans to open “something similar in style.”

Lake Erie Wines: What are you laughing about?

Napa Valley wines don’t taste like Columbia Valley wines. Willamette Valley wines don’t taste like Cumberland Valley wines. And Lake Erie wines don’t taste like Finger Lakes wines. So to ask whether an Ohio-grown chardonnay tastes as good as one from Washington State completely misses the point, explains Arnie Esterer, of Conneaut’s Markko Vineyard. “We make wines here different from every other place in the world.”

The singular combination of soil, climate, vine and winemaker guarantees that every wine will be different from all others, even those grown down the street. Just as no two poodles are the same, no two pinots are identical. This is precisely what makes wine tasting so interesting.

Fortunately for us Clevelanders, we needn’t travel too far to sample interesting wines. Hugging the shoreline between Sandusky and the Pennsylvania border are scores of quality wineries, each with its own roster of unique wines. Most feature public tasting rooms, and many boast full-service restaurants, making it easy to turn a quick jaunt into a full-fledged outing.

The local wine community owes a huge debt of gratitude to Arnie Esterer. When he set up shop 41 years ago, the best wines growing were catawba and concord. With help from famed viticulturist Dr. Konstantin Frank, who pioneered the use of cold-resistant root stock, Esterer proved that Europe’s classic wine grapes could prosper here thanks to the region’s distinctive micro-climate.

To protect their vines from a devastating late-spring frost, winemakers everywhere employ the use of massive propane-powered fans to expel the cold air. Here, however, chilly Lake Erie pushes back the date of springtime bud growth, all but eliminating the risk of frost damage. In autumn, the lake’s accumulated summer heat extends the growing season, giving the grapes plenty of time to fully ripen.

Markko Vineyard (4500 S. Ridge Rd., Conneaut, 800.252.3197, markko.com) is set deep in the woods, just down the road from its 14-acre vineyard. The tasting room is dated and musty – a far cry from the more commercial wineries in the area – and you won’t find any gourmet munchies. What you will find is a wide array of excellent wines and vintages, all grown, produced and bottled on site.

“A wine drinker will never fully understand the variability of wine until they taste a number of different vintages side by side,” Esterer explains. By sampling a 2005 cabernet sauvignon alongside a 2006, for example, a taster can appreciate how climate shapes flavor. “We are not trying to make our wine taste like Burgundy,” he adds. “We are trying to capture the natural character of each variety and vintage.”

In addition to cabernet, Markko crafts first-class chardonnay, reisling and pinot noir.

As good as the wine is at Markko, it can’t supplant a proper meal. For that, visitors should make the short trip to Tarsitano Winery and Café (4871 Hatches Corners Rd., 440.224.2444, Conneaut, tarsitanowinery.com), which takes them over a covered bridge and past acres of sun-dappled vineyards.

Ken Tarsitano describes his and his wife’s winery as a labor of love. In addition to farming the land and crafting the wines, Tarsitano cooks the food and schmoozes the guests. The relaxed restaurant is set in a contemporary barn, where guests sit on mix-and-match furniture and watch the action in the wide-open kitchen.

What’s nice about dining at a winery is being able to sample wines before investing in a bottle. We tried three whites and three reds ($1/sample) before settling on a 2004 cabernet franc ($17). Tarsitano makes its pastas in-house, and the cheese-stuffed ravioli ($21) with grilled chicken is a hearty and delicious affair. Steaks ($24), too, are done right, one of which is gilded with a rich and salty prosciutto cream sauce. Starters include a cheese and bread board ($10) and a roasted veggie-topped bruschetta ($8).

On a picture-perfect summer evening, it’s tough to beat a patio seat at Harpersfield Winery (6387 Rt. 307, 440.466.4739, Geneva, harpersfield.com). Tucked alongside the apple trees and grape vines are picnic tables, where guests sip recent vintages of estate-bottled chardonnay, reisling and pinot noir. A light menu of cheese boards, sandwiches and savory flatbreads are available, and on weekends, live bands perform on the deck.

If you are serious about tasting Harpersfield’s offerings, it’s wise to come well before the evening rush, when staffers will have more time to discuss the wines.

There has been a serious and ongoing attempt to change the perception of Ohio wines, which for far too long have been inexorably linked to sickly sweet varieties. But old habits die hard.

“People still come in here asking for concord wine,” says Linda Frisbie, Markko’s vineyard manager. “Around here, that’s a swear word.”


Additional Country Wine Info

There are dozens of wineries between Cleveland and the Pennsylvania border. Here are just a few. (Note: Always call before visiting wineries.)

Debonne Vineyards (7743 Doty Rd., Madison, 440.466.3485, debonne.com) is one of the largest and most commercially successful wineries in the state. The 110-acre vineyard produces riesling, chardonnay, cabernet franc, ice wine, and scores of other varieties. The spacious, modern facility offers tours and tastings year round and an outdoor grill serves up burgers and hot dogs up until closing time.

At Ferrante Winery and Ristorante (5585 Rt. 307, Geneva, 440.466.8466, ferrantewinery.com) visitors can enjoy wine-friendly Italian fare in a lodge-like dining room boasting views of the vineyard. A more casual patio featuring wine-barrel tables and live entertainment is party central on fine summer nights. Make sure to sample the award-winning reislings.

Laurello Vineyards (4573 Rt. 307, Geneva, 440.415.0661, laurellovineyards.com) offers a comfortable perch to taste chardonnay blends, non-vintage cabernets and easy-drinking blush varieties. A light menu offers cheese plates, warm artichoke dip, grilled sandwiches and homemade pizzas cooked in a wood-burning oven.

Who can resist the temptation to drink in church? Visitors to South River Vineyard (6062 S. River Rd, Geneva, 440.466.6676, southrivervineyard.com) can sample wines in a 120-year-old church that was relocated to the site in pieces. Fans of the winery preach the gospel of Trinity, a house blend of cabernet franc, chambourcin and pinot noir.

No serious wine lover should overlook St. Joseph Vineyard (6060 Rt. 528, Thompson, 440.298.3709, saintjosephvineyard.com), source of some of the finest pinot noir in the state. Join winemakers Art and Doreen Pietrzyk in the tasting room to sample and discuss estate-grown shiraz, chardonnay and Riesling. o spare yourself some running around, make plans to attend Vintage Ohio (www.visitvintageohio.com), an annual celebration of Ohio wine. Held August 7-8 at Lake Metroparks Farmpark (8800 Chardon Rd., Kirtland), the festival will feature over 20 Ohio wineries, plus food, music, cooking demos and entertainment. Tickets are $22 for drinking adults ($25 day of).

Food Low-Brow and High

They don’t do fancy at Hil-Mak's Seafood (449 Lake Ave., Ashtabula, 440.964.3222, hilmaks.com), but fans travel far and wide for this fish shack’s rightly famous clam chowder, fried perch sandwiches and crab cakes.

Sit outside at the lovely Estate on Coffee Creek (1591 St. Rte. 45, Austinburg, 440.275.5022, coffeecreekestate.com) and design your own three-course meal for $35. Friday to Sunday only.

"Green" is Good, but "Tavern" is Better

There was a discussion recently on the local food boards regarding the practice of restaurants charging for bread. Some viewed the trend merely as an unfortunate byproduct of a weak economy. Others declared the practice nothing short of heresy. I’m willing to bet that neither camp will mind dropping $3 for the bread and butter appetizer at the Greenhouse Tavern.

By all outward appearances, the bread and butter starter is just that – some grilled slices of bread and a dollop of pale butter. But standing in for the tried-and-true spread is goat’s milk butter, a creamy, faintly tart substance that when smeared on crusty bread and consumed causes time to slow. Like so many things at Greenhouse, the dish elevates the everyday to an unforgettable food experience.

Too much of the buzz surrounding East Fourth Street’s newest hotspot has focused on the “green” rather than the “tavern.” While it’s noble that the restaurant implemented numerous environmentally friendly practices, few diners select an eatery because it installed high-efficiency water heaters. No, diners return to restaurants from which they depart fat and happy.

Chefs Jonathon Sawyer and Jonathan Seeholzer fully comprehend the notion of satisfaction. To them and their ilk, little can top a leisurely meal filled with good bread, saucy plates, and jugs of rustic wine. When you pair that understanding with a mastery of cooking technique, you craft a restaurant that consistently under promises and over delivers.

Time and again, what appears on the menu to be a pedestrian place-filler turns out to be a revelation. Radishes ($3) are transformed from ubiquitous salad stuffers to addictive bar snacks thanks to a smidgen of butter, salt and grated horseradish. Good prosciutto ($5) can be found on half the menus in town, but only one wraps it around warm logs of fried gnocchi. I’ve eaten more chicken wings ($11) than I care to admit, but damn if I’ve ever tasted them like this. Crisp, salty, juicy, and tossed with garlic and peppers, the duck fat-fried wings are anything but pedestrian.

With Greenhouse, Sawyer promised to do for French-inspired fare what he did for Italian at the wildly popular Bar Cento – namely, reinterpret the cuisine through the use of local, seasonal and sustainable ingredients. Through that lens a hackneyed goat cheese salad becomes a salad ($11) made not with goat’s milk cheese but with Ohio goat meat. A bundle of lush, earthy goat confit (its “baa” subdued by the braise) is paired with a springy herb salad of mint, cilantro and watercress.

The only real “twist” in the quintessentially French steak frites ($19) is the well-trimmed flank of Ohio beef in the center of the plate. The expertly grilled steak is lean, flavorful and tender, making it a delicious foil for Sawyer’s inexplicably crisp fries. On its own, the fine-grained steak tartare ($9) seems to be lacking the requisite salty kick. But when spread on thin toasts and topped with the onion and cornichon relish, the dish nears perfection.

One of the few dishes to not fully live up to its potential is the roast chicken ($18). Sure, the Ohio-bred bird arrives copper-colored in all the right places, but the meat below had evidently shed its moisture along with its feathers. Conversely, a dish that shatters any possible preconception is the steamed clams with foie gras ($13). I’ve never pondered a clam-and-foie pairing, but this dish is proof that some higher power obviously had. We devour the clams just to get to the mind-blowing sauce below.

Being green may be great for the environment but it can sometimes lead to diner disappointment. On one visit we sucked back some of the finest oysters in recent memory – and we chased them with nips of devilishly good horseradish vodka. But when Sawyer could no longer secure a quality sustainable variety, he 86ed them.

Sawyer, who can be seen flitting about in a long apron and short pants, is a consummate tinkerer. He brews his own vinegars, curdles his own cheese, picks and pickles his own ramps, and one day, will grow his own herbs and veggies in a rooftop greenhouse. Like any ambitious project, this one is unfolding in stages. A streetside patio was recently launched, and lunch service soon followed. Look for breakfast and brunch down the road. And though the rooftop is still a work in progress, the kick-ass kitchen dining room has finally hit its stride. The subterranean space places a few lucky diners just feet from the fire, where they can eat, drink and ogle the chefs as they crank out plate after plate of earth-friendly French-inspired fare.


The Greenhouse Tavern
2038 E. Fourth St., Cleveland
216.393.4302

AMP 150: Energy to Burn

As the Cleveland Airport Marriott (4277 W. 150th St.) wraps up an ambitious $20 million hotel-wide makeover, finishing touches are being made to the restaurant. Replacing the 10-year-old Jack’s Steakhouse will be AMP 150, a contemporary American restaurant. The hotel’s owners have brought in consulting chef Dean James Max to develop the concept. Max is also associated with 3030 Ocean in Ft. Lauderdale, and Latitude 41 in Columbus, both hotel restaurants. “AMP 150 stands for America’s modern palette at 150th Street,” explains the chef. “Like Latitude and 3030, the restaurant will be outside the box of what we normally expect from hotel restaurants.”

The totally reconstructed lobby will better connect with the restaurant, providing a blending of the two, says Max. “We really opened it up to create a fun and exciting vibe.” Max describes the food as modern regional American, and he is a proponent of farm-to-table cuisine. (He will use some of the producers that supply his Columbus restaurant while adding local ones.) Few dishes on the menu will climb above $20, and a wide variety of small plates will offer diversity. Diners might see Great Lakes walleye with summer ratatouille, red wine short rib with celery root puree, and double brioche burger with Ohio cheddar and bacon. Norman Colley will serve as chef de cuisine. “There are a lot of chefs in Cleveland doing some very cool things,” adds Max. “I look forward to being a part of it.” Look for a late-summer opening.

Veggie Celebration

Time is running out to purchase tickets for the 2009 Food & Wine Celebration, held annually at the Culinary Vegetable Institute (12304 OH-13) in Milan, OH. This massive food and wine extravaganza, which benefits the Veggie U program, features nearly 40 top chefs from across the country and beyond (including a dozen from Cleveland). Held from 4-9 p.m. on Saturday, July 18, the event will feature silent auctions, a celebrity chef cook-off, and the main attraction, a grand tasting of food and wine. To purchase tickets ($145 per person) call 419.499.7500 or visit www.veggieu.org.

Presto, Change-o!

Fans of the great Presto Sandwiches (21984 Lorain Rd., 440.356.6320) will no longer have to travel to Fairview Park to enjoy a bowl of spicy tomato and blue cheese soup and a meaty Yo! Adrian. Look for Presto to open a second location at 401 Euclid Ave., at the Old Arcade, in less than a week. The menu, says ownership, will be the same.