Flavor Tripping: Like Acid, only Sweeter

The last time someone offered me a small Ziploc baggie in exchange for $10, Phish was performing on a nearby stage. This time is different, though, as the contents of that clear plastic bag, as far as I can tell, are perfectly legal.

On a recent Monday night, about 100 brave souls and I attended a Flavor Tripping party at the B-Side Liquor Lounge in Cleveland Heights. Hosted by chef Matthew Mytro, the food-focused event was designed to showcase the unique culinary properties of the West African berry known as “miracle fruit.” Once ingested, the berry tricks the tongue into thinking that sour foods taste sweet, among other gastronomic anomalies. The effects are harmless and temporary, with one’s taste buds sobering up in about an hour’s time.

Upon descending the stairs into B-Side, guests trade in their cash or tickets for a single red berry the size and shape of a plump coffee bean. The gentleman distributing them explains the proper method of consumption: “You want to chew the berry for a good minute or two before swallowing,” he says. “Try and get the juices all around your tongue. Enjoy!”

To judge if your taste perception has been properly skewed, each berry comes with a lime wedge. In no more than a few minutes, that lime can be devoured whole without so much as a grimace or pucker. In fact, it tastes a lot like lime-flavored candy. Once you are sufficiently “tripping,” you move on to various food stations to investigate the berry’s bizarre effects.

Those effects are caused by miraculin, a glycoprotein that binds to the tongue’s taste buds during berry consumption. For a period ranging from 30 minutes to two hours, miraculin acts as a sweetness inducer, causing bitter and sour foods to taste summer sweet. For centuries, native West Africans consumed the berry before eating meals to make the food more palatable.

These “flavor tripping” parties are certainly not new or unique to Cleveland; they have been popping up on the underground food scene for a few years now. In parties across the land, daring foodies are popping strange berries in dark places in hopes of scoring a psychedelic experience. Of course, much of the appeal lies precisely in that clandestine mystique, which is cultivated by those who organize the events.

“The experience gives you the perception that you are doing something illicit, but without actually doing anything illegal or dangerous,” explains chef Mytro. Indeed, much like at a party where pot brownies are making the rounds, guests seem compelled to check up on one another. “You noticing anything yet,” one asks. “Wow, I think it started,” responds another.

The effects vary from fruit to fruit, person to person, and food to food. We happily crunch away on raw rhubarb like it is fresh-picked celery. I select the bitterest, most hoppy beer at the bar and drain it like it’s Budweiser at the ballpark. Salt and vinegar potato chips taste like regular chips, albeit a tad saltier. Goat cheese tastes as smooth and sweet as cream cheese. Run-of-the-mill balsamic vinegar easily could pass as the pricey barrel-aged stuff. And supermarket strawberries taste like they were just picked up at the nearest farmers market.

The berry doesn’t necessarily make things taste better, just different. When you cancel out the bitterness in a Guinness, for example, the beer tastes flat and bland. Don’t even think about splurging for an expensive glass of wine; it will have all the balance and complexity of a cheap Muscatel. And despite what people tell you about chomping on a jalapeno pepper, the effects are every bit as painful as they would be pre-berry.

There are no lasting or negative effects once the berry wears off, though it isn’t uncommon for folks to wake up with a sour stomach. It isn’t the berry that causes it; it’s the smorgasbord of chips, beers, cheese, vinegar, lime and hot peppers. Go figure.

Though these events are held about every month or so, I see no reason to repeat the experience. It’s one of those “Hey, that’s pretty cool” things that quickly loses its novelty. But when was the last time you enjoyed an interesting, original and eye-opening evening for $10?

In addition to offering a fun, affordable night on the town, host chef Mytro hopes the parties will open people up to new food experiences. “Maybe by doing something a little crazy like this,” he says, “these people will become a little more adventurous the next time they go out to eat.”

Visit Stove Monkeys to see when the next Flavor Tripping event will be held.

About Thyme...for Spring

One person who can’t see spring arrive quickly enough is John Kolar, chef of Medina’s wonderful Thyme (716 N. Court St., Medina, 330.764.4114, thymetherestaurant.com). “It’s been a long, long winter, brother,” laments the chef. Like many businesses, Thyme has been hit by a drop in business. But smart chefs always come up with tasty new ways to attract customers. Rather than raise prices or cut quality, Kolar introduced two new sections to his menu. Priced $13 to $18, house-made pasta entrees include sautéed shrimp and shells with brie cream sauce, and lobster fettuccini with asparagus and brandy cream sauce. Pizza fans can enjoy gourmet grilled pies for $11 to $15. The flavor combos include shrimp Creole, chicken Cordon Blue, and quattro formaggio. Kolar will also debut a new lunch menu when seasonal lunch service resumes on May 18.

Patio Kick-Off Party

West Siders know that one of the very best patios is tucked behind Wine Bar Rocky River (1313 Linda St., 440.799.4300, winebarrr.com). The restaurant will officially kick off the 2009 patio season on Tuesday, May 5, with its Cinco de Mayo party. Join in on the fun from 4 to 10 p.m. when they will be serving free chips and salsa, playing DJ-spun tunes, and offering special prices on tacos and margaritas.

A Vine & Bean Sprouts on Larchmere

When Heather Haviland added weekend brunch service to the Lucky’s Café repertoire, she immediately became the queen of the breakfast circuit. Already a popular midweek coffee-and-pastry stop, Lucky’s soon found itself besieged by the ravenous bridge-and-tunnel set. Things went so well, so fast, that the chef finally was able to replace her closet-sized kitchen with one large enough to handle a crowd.

Oh, to have that roomy kitchen at Vine & Bean, her new East Side café.

“I’m right back where I started,” Haviland sighed.

Not quite. At least the original kitchen at Lucky’s was on the main floor. These days, Haviland is squeezing herself into a tiny basement cookshop. Once again, she is busting out the portable gas burners, juggling pots and pans, and generally rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic just to keep up.

Not that you’d ever know it upstairs. Set in a picture-perfect Victorian century home, Vine & Bean couldn’t be any cuter without breaking a law. The former home to Café Limbo, a well-received vegetarian eatery, the adorable café features a tiny counter and barista station, a fireplace, some couches, and about 15 tables scattered across three small rooms. In cold weather, the place seats around 35. In warm, that number almost doubles thanks to porch and patio seating.

As an East Sider, I have to admit that the idea of a Lucky’s-style brunch just half a block from the North Union Farmers Market at Shaker Square more than piqued my interest. But would it be as good as the original in Tremont, I wondered? Better, considering that the drive is shorter and the wait (at least for now) brief. In order to pull off brunch on both sides of town simultaneously, Haviland hired chef Ky-Wai Wong to take her place at Lucky’s while she runs the show at Vine & Bean.

Because they share a commissary – and a conscience – both restaurants utilize bushels of local ingredients. Haviland is a fanatic for quality, and she is willing to go out of her way for freshness. Eggs, cheese, milk and produce all come from Ohio farms, as does the beef and bacon. First and foremost a pastry chef, Haviland bakes all the breads, scones, muffins and cookies from scratch.

Swapping scones for biscuits might be considered treasonous down South, but Haviland does it to no ill effect in her deliciously homespun biscuits and gravy ($11.25). A split cheddar-scallion scone is topped with gently scrambled eggs, ladlefuls of creamy sausage gravy, and a sprinkling of scallions. Hash browns here are chunky, well-browned and substantial.

Those great potatoes are at the heart of the now-famous Shipwreck ($11.25), a dish for diners who can’t decide. Like a breakfast buffet in a bowl, this chestnut includes fried potatoes, scrambled eggs, bacon, white cheddar and a fistful of seasonal veggies. Two slices of the best buttered toast in town obviate the need for a fork. If you ask for Red Hot, like we did, you’ll be rewarded with a cruet of smoky-sweet homemade hot sauce.

Tex-Mex in spirit, the killer breakfast burrito plate ($11.25) features two plump scrambled egg-stuffed tortillas. The burritos are nestled into a casserole, topped with sauce and cheese, and served with fried potatoes. That sauce, a stormy brew made with guajillo and ancho chiles, is like the sinister twin to good-natured mole.

A word about the stiff tariffs: Granted, $12 sounds like a lot to spend on breakfast, especially when $3 bacon-and-egg deals are everywhere. But this isn’t breakfast – it’s brunch. Meals are not only delicious, they are substantial enough to tide one over until dinner, a late dinner at that.

During the week, Vine & Bean is decidedly more low key. Lunches consist of salads, sandwiches and paninis, all made from the same great local ingredients. Dinner, which is served Wednesday through Saturday nights, adds cheese plates and a handful of entrees. Recent options included meatloaf with mushroom gravy, and tofu and veggie curry on naan. The Bean stocks a nice little selection of craft brews and wines by the glass, and on weekends there is live music. The fourth Saturday of each month, Haviland and Wong present a multi-course food and wine feast.

Vine & Bean just launched the weekend brunch, and it seems that word is beginning to spread. If demand exists, a weekday breakfast may be added to the mix. For Haviland it’s a bit like déjà vu all over again. If business continues to grow on the East Side like it did on the West, she may be compelled to expand yet another kitchen.

“But that’s putting the cart before the horse,” says the eternally modest Haviland.


Vine & Bean
12706 Larchmere Blvd., Cleveland
216.707.3333
http://www.vineandbeancafe.com‎/

Melt Oozes East of the River

Since opening a couple years back, Melt Bar and Grilled (14718 Detroit Ave., 216.226.3699, meltbarandgrilled.com) has been one of the most successful restaurants on Cleveland’s West Side. Soon, owner Matt Fish will attempt to duplicate that success on the East Side. In a matter of weeks, Fish will begin an ambitious renovation project at an undisclosed Cleveland Heights location. If all goes as planned, the second Melt will open by late fall. “Cleveland Heights has a lot of great things going on,” Fish told me, “and I look forward to being a part of it.” He added that the move is a natural one as many of his regular customers already hail from east of the Cuyahoga, and “if any neighborhood in Cleveland is similar to Lakewood, it’s Cleveland Heights.” When completed, the space will be considerable in scale, with some 4,500-square-feet capable of seating about 170 guests. Fish says he plans on mimicking his winning formula as best he can. He is starting with a space that has “great Cleveland history.” Guests can expect wood floors, high tin ceilings, exposed brick walls and secluded back patio. As for the software, East Siders can look forward to the same great sandwiches, beer selection and rock-and-roll tinged atmosphere.

Symon Announces Two New Cleveland Restaurants

Michael Symon and Company just announced plans to open two new Cleveland area restaurants.

Bar Symon will take the former Swingo’s Grand Tavern space in Avon Lake. The American brasserie will feature affordable American comfort foods, with a heavy emphasis on small plates, grilled sausages, and robustly flavored entrees. The menu will include bar snacks like crab deviled eggs, pork cracklings, and smoked shrimp. There will be Symon-styled dishes like duck confit sliders, truffled fried chicken, and smoked and braised pork butt. A rotisserie will spin with a daily beast selection. Most items will be priced between $7 and $18. Look for 25 wines and 100 beers, 40 of which will be on tap. Bar Symon should be open by late June.

Symon describes B Spot, which will open later this summer at Eton Chagrin Boulevard, as a “cool rock and roll dive bar with great burgers and beer.” Symon has created a special burger recipe that combines Black Angus, brisket, sirloin and chuck. The burgers will be started over open flames and then finished on a flattop griddle. The 3,000-square-foot casual restaurant will seat about 18 at the bar, another 80 at tables, plus outdoor seating. Diners can expect a great selection of draft beers.

Indigo Imp: Devilishly Good Beer

Technology has taken the guesswork out of commercial brewing. Computer-controlled kettles employ thermo sensors to maintain accurate boils. Glycol-jacketed fermentation tanks keep the beer cool despite ambient temps. Recipe software calculates ingredients lists down to the last ounce. The result is remarkably consistent beer batch after batch after batch.

That’s not exactly the scenario at Indigo Imp, Cleveland’s newest artisinal brewery.

“My techniques are a lot closer to what they were doing 50 years ago than what people are doing today,” says owner-brewer Matt Chappel. The former CAD operator designed and built his small craft brewery by hand. Not because he wanted to, but because he had to.

“All that high-tech stuff would be great to have,” he admits, “but it wasn’t possible on our budget.” Instead, Chappel jury rigged his brewhouse out of generic stainless tanks. Anything specifically sold as brewery equipment costs twice as much. His kettles are heated not by gas, but by decidedly low-tech electric immersion coils because the former required the installation of a chimney. And while practically every other brewer in the nation ferments his or her beer in hermetically sealed conical silos, Chappel lets his bubble away in open vats.

It is precisely this open-fermentation system that gives Indigo Imp beer its distinctive flavor. Because the beer ferments in open vessels, it is exposed to any number of renegade yeasts. This process results in flavors that are not only unique, but unique to a specific location – a terroir, if you will.

Walking into the fermentation room, one is overcome by a sweet, yeasty aroma. Brewed one day earlier, the beer already has a thick, lacey cap of foam, called krausen, covering its entire surface. It isn’t long before the high concentration of carbon dioxide forces us out of the cooler.

Indigo Imp isn’t brewed solely with wild yeast, a process referred to as spontaneous fermentation. Rather, the beer is kick-started with a specific strain, typically Belgian, before it is opened up to Cleveland’s finest fungi. “This gives the beer a nice balance, with only a slight touch of that wild-yeast character,” Chappel explains.

Chappel had been a home brewer for 16 years without ever once considering starting a commercial brewery. Like most do-it-yourselfers, he began using kits and concentrates before graduating to all-grain brewing. He built a mini-brewhouse in his garage and cooked up suds for his family and friends. Some won awards at local competitions.

“When our kids went off to primary school, my wife and I decided that the time might be right to start a business,” Chappel says. “We did the research and determined that it might be possible to start a small-scale brewery and have it support itself financially from the start.”

Of course, no start-up is without its kinks. Chappel and his wife Kathy estimated that the first batch of beer would roll off the assembly line six months after signing a lease. In truth, that time was more like two years. After the brewery was built it took another five months to acquire the state and federal permits. And then there was the learning curve. Too much wild yeast made the first batch unbearably “funky.” Another batch boiled over the sides of the brew kettle, while a third fermented so vigorously that it escaped its 300-gallon vat.

In terms of size, Indigo Imp is tiny, cranking out just 7,000 cases a year. But growth might not be too far down the road. Since opening four months ago, Imp already has landed coveted cooler space at Heinen’s, Bier Markt, Bar Cento, Old Angle and Prosperity Social Club. More than simply eager to support the local guy, these operators are raving about the quality.

“Most beers are rigorously filtered, artificially carbonated, and some even pasteurized,” explains Bier Markt owner Sam McNulty. “These processes strip out and alter the natural flavor of the brew. Not so with Indigo.”

Indigo presently offers three styles: Blonde Bombshell, Jester and Winter Solstice, a seasonal. McNulty describes the Jester as classically Belgian, with slight notes of sourness and bitterness. Bombshell, he notes, is a balanced and accessible American ale.

On brew days, Chappel gets to the 3,500-square-foot warehouse space by 3 a.m. It takes two hours just to scrub down and sanitize the equipment. His wife typically helps out from 5 to 8:30 a.m. before she heads off to her day job. On bottling days, their kids, 7 and 8, build forts out of six-pack boxes and race remote-controlled cars around the warehouse.

“We seem to making a product that people are excited about,” Chappel says. “But with any retail product, success is ultimately up to the consumer.”


*Stop by Indigo Imp from 2:30 to 5:30 p.m. on Fridays when it holds retail hours. Cash only.

3615 Superior Ave.
Tyler Complex 4201B
216.881.0650
http://www.indigoimpbrewery.com/

New 'Speakeasy' to Open in Ohio City

Ever since Sam McNulty opened the Bier Markt (1948 W. 25th St., 216.344.9944, bier-markt.com), he’s been tinkering in the basement. No, he isn’t restoring a big-block Chevy or building the ultimate “man cave.” He’s been fabricating another bar. In less than a month, all that work will pay off when he unveils Speakeasy, a lower-level club with an antiestablishment vibe. The dimly lit, grotto-like lounge will specialize in Prohibition-era cocktails and feature servers in “updated flapper outfits.” Roughly the size of its upstairs neighbor, Speakeasy will accommodate about 120 guests at a sizeable central bar, at chunky wood high tops, and along wall-hugging banquettes. Ingenious Amish-built benches offer space for both seated and standing friends at long raised tables. Faux gas lamps flicker, casting an old-timey glow on the 150-year-old hand-chiseled sandstone walls. Original black and white prints by Cleveland artist Clay Parker follow the Prohibition theme, with images of booze-dumping teetotalers and sassy bob-haired flappers. A small stage will feature a wide range of live entertainment, from trendy DJs to classical recitals. “I have always loved underground bars,” McNulty says. “La Cave du Vin is my favorite bar that I don’t own. Humans are den animals at heart.” Speakeasy will be open Thursday through Saturday and for special events.

New Designs at D'Vine

“I’ve always lived beyond my years,” says the 21-year-old Andrew Casey. With the ink on his Culinary Institute of America diploma still wet, the young chef will set his sights on the next big challenge: overhauling the food at D’Vine Wine Bar (836 W. Saint Clair Ave., 216/241-8463, dvinewinebar.com). “A lot of people are surprised to learn that we serve food,” he laments. “I definitely want to change that.” For his externship, Casey worked at the acclaimed Napa Valley eatery, Bouchon. He also spent a few years cooking at Lolita. He describes his style as “simple and clean, with a focus on American regional cuisine.” He intends to stick with the small-plate format, while upgrading quality, presentation and preparation. New items will include pork meatballs with buffalo mozzarella, grilled anchovies with fennel-apple ragu, and pan-fried perch with spaetzle. Look for house-cured meats down the road.

Take a Bite out of Bodega

At one time, people actually dressed up to go out to eat on Coventry Road. These days, it’s all flip-flops and sports jerseys.

With Bodega, Said Ouaddaadaa hoped to reverse the trend, to create a place where a guy in a tie wouldn’t look like a dork. He transformed a lower-level space, formerly an art supply store, into a stunning South Beach-style restaurant and lounge. Going against Cleveland convention, he crafted a creative menu of Mediterranean small plates. He rounded out the plan with 150 martinis and 200 wines. And just like that, people began to dress up again on Coventry.

Despite what we’ve come to expect from a bodega (gritty corner market peddling 40s), this grotto was designed with a Miami state of mind. “I love South Beach,” Ouaddaadaa told me. “I go there all the time and spend money. I thought, why not bring Miami to Cleveland?”

Set a few steps below street level, the mod space welcomes guests with a sleek waterfall, spectacular crystal chandelier and gauzy linens. There are specific zones for dining, sitting bar-side, or kickin’ it South Beach-style on plush banquettes. A back-lit bar fills the room with a ruby-red glow, a striking contrast to the white drapes, white tables, white chairs and white-granite bartop.

As appealing as this formula was, there still was room for improvement. Bodega’s original menu lacked focus, possessed more than a few duds, and its execution could be hit or miss. But thanks to a new chef, new menu and new crew, Bodega clearly is hitting its stride. Talented young chef Demetrios Atheneos, formerly of Bella Lucca and Giovanni’s, has reworked the menu, giving it both a renewed clarity and broader appeal. And because this is Cleveland, after all, he added a section for entrees.

The menu is divided into categories for tapas (both hot and cold), short plates (salads, odds and ends), and entrees. Diners are always griping about tapas, not quite sure where they fit in the appetizer-entrée-dessert restaurant paradigm. Here, they are essentially large appetizers, with more than enough food for four to sample and share.

Though big enough to share, I largely enjoyed the crispy chicken livers ($8) all by myself. The chef dusts the livers in flour and pops them in the fryer, giving them an addictively crisp shell. He perches the livers atop creamy polenta, splashes them with a sweet glaze, and tops it all with fried shallots. On the opposite end of the flavor spectrum, the tuna tartar ($9) is bright and bracingly tropical. Finely diced sushi-grade tuna is layered above creamy avocado, sweet mango and pert arugula. A fragrant sesame oil and mild chili sauce add some depth.

Asian accents appear throughout the menu, like in the case of the absolutely killer calamari ($8). The meaty rings are coated in a sesame seed-studded breading, fried up golden brown and squirted with a sweet-spicy honey-wasabi aioli. Providing only a slight twist on the French classic, the chef coats a pair of bone-in lamb chops ($12) with mustard, herbs and panko before roasting them off. They are nestled into whipped potatoes and drizzled with a wine reduction.

The “Short Plate” section offers a sort of pit stop between starters and mains, featuring mostly salads and spreads. There’s a romaine salad ($6) with applewood bacon, grape tomatoes and creamy blue cheese dressing. Then there is the wonderful grilled haloumi cheese ($10), a nod to the chef’s motherland. A thick wedge of the pleasantly salty Greek cheese is sautéed until warm and deeply caramelized. It is paired with tapenade and served with warm pita.

Entrees, while tasty, are less exciting than many of the small plates. For beef eaters, the steak Diane ($31) is a luxurious treat. Two good-sized tenderloins are seared and sauced with a dark mushroom-studded wine sauce. Pasta lovers will doubtless enjoy the shrimp ravioli ($24), which pairs large shrimp with pillowy pockets of mushroom ravioli in a light cream sauce.

Like the room around it, the plates that hit the table are highly conceived. As delightful to look at as they are to poke with a fork, the food is artfully arranged, garnished and plated. Most are crowned with a generous handful of fancy Chef’s Garden greens. Desserts are even prettier. It’s obvious the chef takes pride in his work.

Despite all that splendor, I think the restaurant would be wise to add some more affordable options. Out of two dozen small plates, only five are priced less than $8. Most of the entrees are north of $24.

As hard as Ouaddaadaa might try to change matters, this is still Coventry.


Bodega
1854 Coventry Rd., Cleveland Hts.
216.932.3060
www.bodegaoncoventry.com

Greenhouse Tavern Makes Huge Splash, Leaves Small Carbon Footprint

Music fans had their Rock Hall inductions; food fans got their first taste of The Greenhouse Tavern (2038 E. Fourth St., 216.393.4302, thegreenhousetavern.com).

The restaurant, which officially opens April 13, is Ohio’s first to be "green"-certified. By going local with everything from food purveyors to bar-top fabricators, the restaurant has shriveled its carbon footprint small enough to fit into a baby shoe. Walls are clad in antique barn siding, the back bar is assembled from science lab cabinets, and the spectacular light fixtures are made from old bicycle wheels, spokes and all. All these elements come together in a polished, seamless fashion. “We want the restaurant to feel like it has been here a long time,” says chef-owner Jonathon Sawyer.

Though large in scale, the restaurant feels like a cozy little bistro thanks to its unique layout. Broken up into sections, no area seats much more than 25 guests. The main dining area is devoted to the long bar and communal high-top seating. A back mezzanine offers sweeping views of the entire room. The front mezzanine looks out over E. Fourth Street. Down the road, the rooftop bar and dining area will open along with the namesake greenhouse.

If “local” is watchword one, than “French” is close behind. “Our approach is a lot like it was at Bar Cento,” explains Sawyer, “but with the south of France, not Italy, as our inspiration.” Sawyer has a gift for making high-quality foreign-inspired fare approachable and casual. French Breakfast radishes are sliced in half and slathered with butter and salt. Hand-ground beef tartar is topped with a poached egg and garnished with local ramps. Ohio chicken is roasted and served with bread heels to sop up the juice. A magnificent piece of Ohio hangar steak frites rings in at $17. The bulk of the menu comes in far less than that. “We want to show people that good, local food doesn’t have to be expensive,” says Everest Curley, beverage director. Sawyer and chef partner Jonathan Seeholzer are crafting their own vinegars, making their own cheese, and preserving their own pickles. Many of the wines, spirits and beers are exclusive to this restaurant.

Perhaps the sweetest room in the house is the basement, home to the open kitchen. Seating is available at the kitchen counter and a handful of tables. The nearby vintage jukebox and turntable will come in handy when the crew fires up the popular Rock and Roll Wine Projects.