The last time I stopped by 1261 W. Sixth Street, I was greeted by a velvet rope and an arrogant doorman. Fortunately, my friends and I were dressed in proper attire, so we had little problem slipping by the gatekeeper after coughing up the hefty cover charge. Our reward? Over-priced cocktails and a roomful of witless party people.
But that was then, back when the address was occupied by the ultra-exclusive Spy Bar. These days, the building is home to Barley House, and the scene can’t be more different.
On warm days, the entire façade of Barley House opens up, presenting an unambiguously hospitable welcome. Inside and out, casually dressed guests appear to be enjoying the company of friends as opposed to seeking out new ones. Spy Bar’s semi-private nooks and crannies have been replaced with convivial banquettes and neighborly communal tables.
Our reception was equally warm. When we couldn’t decide whether to dine outside or in, a patient staffer guided us to various locales for examination and selection. Our server picked up from there, quickly delivering drinks, menus and her undivided attention.
Of course, your experience may differ considerably. Depending on the day and time, Barley House shifts from casual lunch spot to spirited dining room to raucous 20-something meat market. If you’re looking for a romantic date-night dinner spot, for example, you may want to look elsewhere. But for awesome happy hour deals dished up in a laidback Warehouse District pub, Barley House comes through.
It’s difficult to thrive as both restaurant and nightclub, and Barley House exhibits the expected inconsistencies when it comes to the food. Billed as an Irish-style pub, the menu is studded with the usual assortment of faux-Irish fare and cheesy Irish sayings (Sit Long. Talk Much. Laugh Often. How original!) But fortunately for diners, the menu goes well beyond corned beef and cabbage and shepherd’s pie.
The Rueben egg rolls ($7.49) are a sort of cross between sauerkraut balls and Asian spring rolls. Crispy and delicious, the fried rolls are stuffed with corned beef, Swiss, cabbage and potatoes. They are served with a horseradish dipping sauce. Unless you enjoy oddly colored and flavored industrial cheese product, I’d skip the pretzel bites. These bland “cheese” stuffed nuggets lack any gustatory interest, even when dragged through the horseradish sauce.
Oddly enough, Barley House’s pizzas seem to be the biggest hits. The pies ($8.99) are deep and doughy, and topped with some of the strangest things one might ever encounter. We sidestepped the macaroni and cheese variety in favor of one loaded with chicken, bacon and ranch dressing.
Lunchtime visitors can opt for the “bottomless” soup and salad deal ($6.99) or one of the oh-so-Irish half-pound burgers. There is a nice selection of entrée-size salads assembles from fresh ingredients.
The phrase “hot mess” gets tossed around quite a bit these days, but never has it been more adequate a description than in the case of the shepherd’s pie ($11.99). A large, deep bowl is crammed full with potato chunks, frozen veggies, and random bits of meat. The ingredients are suspended in a goopy gravy of unknown origin. The arrangement is partially obscured by two floppy potato pancakes that rest on top. Not only does the dish bear little resemblance to the classic, it bear’s little resemblance to food. Barley House also monkeys around with the fish and chips ($8.99), but it does so with more success. The kitchen swaps the traditional beer-batter crust for a leaner, crunchier breading. Now, if they can only find better fish to batter.
Typically, tipplers at Irish pubs are limited to the same-old Guinnesses and Harps. Not here, where the beer list contains gems such as Magic Hat, Dogfish Head, and Ommegang. ($4.50/pint, $6.50/25 oz.)
Barley House
1261 W. 6th St., Cleveland
216.623.1700
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