Vento Takes Advantage of Park Setting

It is pretty tough to top the setting that envelops Vento (28611 Lake Rd., 440.835.4530, ventotrattoria.com), a new Italian eatery in Bay Village. Located on the grounds of the Metroparks’ Huntington Reservation, the idyllic spot is remarkably serene, boasting lush landscapes and distant lake views. Formerly the Coffee Shop, the old wood-sided building has been freshened up and its kitchen expanded. Guests can sit in the wee dining room or out on the gravel-lined patio. Operated by Di DeRubba, with help from partner and husband John McDonnell (Tartine), the casual Italian bistro offers a concise menu with only a handful of appetizers, salads and entrees. Starters include a lovely crab cake ($8), bursting at the seams with sweet seafood. Likewise, a mild pepper ($8) is stuffed to the gills with zesty sausage meat. There is a bright spinach salad ($7), augmented with goat cheese, orange, and pistachio nuts. For the main event, a pristine flank of halibut ($16) is topped with tomato puree and sided with red pepper polenta. A moist but pale skin-on chicken breast ($15) is served on mashed potatoes. At these prices, a simple bread plate would be a reasonable gesture, but none is in sight. We’ll chalk up service issues to opening-month snags, but no table should have to ask to hear the specials and receive water. For now there is only a beer list, but diners are encouraged to bring their own bottle of wine (and pay the $10 corkage fee).