“This is really my style of dining,” says Michael Symon of his just-launched Bar Symon. “This is very similar to what the original Lola was like when we first opened it.”
While Lola has trended a bit upmarket since the move from Tremont to East Fourth Street, Bar Symon is gloriously – even raucously – informal. Billed as an American brasserie, the Avon Lake eatery raises the volume, lightens the mood and eases the tariffs on what we have come to expect from a Michael Symon Restaurant.
Changes to the old Swingos Grand Tavern space have introduced a spirit of levity to the proceedings. Guests who cross the threshold immediately find themselves near the long bar, which has been straightened out from its prior curvilinear shape. Illuminating the bar is a row of warmly glowing bare bulbs, a look borrowed from other Symon eateries.
The exuberance of the bar extends to the farthest reaches of the room now that the space has been opened up from end to end. Concrete floors don’t offer much in the way of sound dampening, but faux tin ceiling drop panels do help. Thanks to subway tile walls, schoolhouse pendant lights and groovy etched mirrors, the restaurant boasts the timeless look and feel of a New York City saloon.
Fans of Symon’s boldly flavored fare will not be disappointed. On the Big Board ($17), a variety of fragrant grilled sausages are coupled with sourdough toasts, pickled veggies, and two kinds of mustard. Ours featured spicy lamb and mint, pork and fennel, and kielbasa – all made fresh in house. Other starters and snacks include fresh-shucked oysters ($2), duck confit sliders ($6), and deliriously enjoyable pork cracklings ($4), which are presented in a little wooden pig.
Some familiar dishes appear on the menu, like a cheddar burger with fried egg ($9/inc. fries), and the rightly famous mac and cheese with chicken, goat cheese and rosemary ($14). New for this diner was a heaping helping of finger-licking fried chicken ($15) drizzled with honey and truffle. Barbecue fans will dig the mountain of tender smoked and braised pork butt ($15), crowned with a richness-cutting pickled cabbage slaw. Nightly spit-roasted specials will range from roast pork and goat tacos to Greek lamb and prime rib.
Those in search of "lighter" fare will doubtless gravitate to the grilled walleye or trout (both $17), or the mussels steamed in white ale ($10) with chilies and garlic.
Entrees include sides, like fried Brussels sprouts, bacon creamed corn, and the svelte and crunchy Lola fries, anointed with rosemary and served in a stainless cup.
Heading up the kitchen is Lolita alum Matthew Harlan. Managing is Nolan Cleary.
Bar Symon
32353 Walker Rd., Avon Lake
440-933-5652
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