Tuesday, May 5, 2009

Hyde Meet Jekyll, Jekyll Meet Hyde

It took over a year, but the former Blake’s Seafood Grill in Chagrin Falls has reopened with a new moniker and menu. A play on the Hyde Park Restaurant Group’s name, Jekyll’s Kitchen (17 River St., 440.893.0797, jekyllskitchen.com) is the latest eatery to retool in an attempt to attract a wider range of customers by offering lower price points. Gone are most of the pricey wood-grilled seafood items, replaced in large part by pizzas, pasta and ribs. Other popular trends that Jekyll’s warmly embraced are bar snacks (sliders!), blue plate specials, and molecular gastronomy-inspired cocktails. Executive chef Kevin Foley has crafted a menu that likely will appeal to most family members. Though somebody forgot to truffle our truffle chips ($6.50), that didn’t stop us from devouring a platter of fresh-fried potato chips topped with balsamic and blue cheese. We equally enjoyed Foley’s take on calamari ($9.50), but wished it came with a more compelling sauce. Pizzas, priced from $10 to $17, are started on the wood grill, giving the study crust an aromatic char and pleasant taste. Neither round nor square, the pies are satisfying and filling. The fresh fish selections are whittled down to just three, Atlantic salmon, Chilean sea bass, and a daily special. This being a Hyde Park restaurant, diners can count on solid steaks and chops, including three sizes of filet, and two each of the rib-eye and strip. Inside and out, the space received a sharp renovation, giving it a more contemporary feel. One of the best features of the restaurant is the new patio, which practically abuts the town’s namesake falls. When it’s completed soon, the patio will boast a stacked-stone fireplace, alfresco bar and scaled-back menu. String lights will point to the way to good times.

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