Another Crack at the Big Egg

There were more diners at The Big Egg (5107 Detroit Ave., 216.281.1600) on a recent Saturday morning than I had ever seen at Saigon 88, Pho Que Huong or Long Phung, the restaurants that both preceded and superseded it. In fact, there were more diners at this version of the Big Egg than even the original could claim in its final desperate years. Apart from the name, the address and the egg-shaped menus, the two Eggs share little in common. The former was a beloved and reviled dive that posed a significant health hazard to even the casual passerby. The latter appears to be a welcome new addition to the neighborhood. Don’t get me wrong, the locale still attracts its fair share of characters, but also young couples, entire families and cops.

The corner spot is bright, clean and airy, made all the airier by wall cutouts that unite the restaurant’s two rooms. A sweeping diner-style menu features large salads, Greek and Italian entrees, fried fish platters and open-face sandwiches. Breakfast is served all day. Service is quick and friendly, and the food – at least the breakfast – isn’t half bad. Popular items include omelets, pancakes, skillets and the 2X4, two each of pancakes, eggs, bacon and sausage for $4. The Western omelet ($5.99) is pretty much textbook (though a tad dry), with onions, green peppers and diced ham. Pancakes ($3.99) are large and fluffy and served with Hungry Jack from its original container. Biscuits and gravy ($4.79) fans won’t have much to complain about this version, which comes with or without eggs. The hash browns could use some jazzing up, but at least they arrive with a nice crust.