First Bite: L'Albatros

Ask any avid, well-travelled Cleveland diner what this city lacks and more than likely the reply will be French brasserie. In New York, places like Balthazar and Les Halles are perennially packed thanks to exceedingly appealing menus coupled with a spirited scene. With the opening of L’Albatros (11401 Bellflower Rd., 216.791.7880, albatrosbrasserie.com), that culinary gap finally has been plugged.

Set inside a completely reinvented That Place on Bellflower, the bistro seduces diners with a roster of classic brasserie gems like escargot, pork terrine, roasted cod and choucroute garnie. But since this is a Zack Bruell (Parallax, Table 45) restaurant, guests can count on more than a few contemporary twists. Thankfully, there is no monkeying around with a picture-perfect onion soup gratinee ($7). Served in a crock glazed with melted cheese, the hearty onion-studded brew is absolutely superb. Same for the chef’s terrine ($7), two rectangular slices of rich, moist pork and veal pate. Gilded with lard, speckled with pistachios, and topped with good grainy mustard, the starter is textbook. Pork rillettes ($7), slow-cooked and shredded meat that is served with toasts, gets better and better as it loses its chill. Salads include the classic frisee, bacon and egg, plus a refreshing radish and cucumber mix ($6) dressed with a blissful crème fraiche vinaigrette. L’Albatros’ cassoulet ($22) is a glorious medley of duck, lamb, sausages, white beans and crispy bits. But don’t expect an earthenware crock – this version is presented in a 12-inch stainless skillet. Of course, the flourish is trademark Bruell, as is the polished, minimalist décor. L'Albatros has Cleveland's finest cheese service, attended to by an ex-Artisinal staffer.

Completely reworked, the space will be virtually unrecognizable to former That Place diners. Upon arrival, guests practically walk straight into the wide-open kitchen. Next up is a snug but lively little bar and lounge area. Dining rooms feature whitewashed brick, snow-white tables and white plastic chairs. Bruell has assembled a top-flight staff, which includes Andy Dombrowski (Delmonico’s) as chef de cuisine and Rob Rasmussen as GM and wine pro. L’Albatros is open daily for lunch and dinner except Sunday.